Eliminate oxidation

The most obvious thing to do is to keep the tracks clean. I like to use a liquid cleaner made by LifeLike. It comes blue-colored and thin like water, but it stinks like sweaty clothes (just a small compromise). If you like, you can use rubbing alcohol. Some modelers really love denatured alcohol (used as a lacquer thinner and in furniture refinishing), but if you use that, be careful and wear gloves and goggles.

Place a little on a clean rag, and wipe the rail head clean with about 2 or 4 passes. As you move down the line, keep changing spots on the rag. When you're out of wet area on the rag, put on some more cleaner in a different spot.

Others like eraser-like pads (sold at hobby shops), or an abrasive stone, such as Walther's Bright Boy. Just rub it over the rails. You can buy or make these blocks attached to a car that cleans as it runs in a train, making them a necessity for tunnels.

Drastic measures for filthy tracks!

If you've got super-dirty tracks, you can use a fine grit sandpaper (at least 280 grit- 400 is better)- but be careful! Cleaning with sandpaper exposes a new surface of the metal, and it too will just get dirty if not cleaned with regular cleaner.  Many modelers use a sanding sponge as an alternative to just paper.

A touchy subject, often I'm asked about using steel wool on rusty rails. And I usually say it's okay, as long as you get rid of the metal particles that result. Don't use steel wool on anything smaller than O (Lionel) tracks. Run a magnet over the areas. Only use this if you absolutely have to, like if you found an old set in the attic.

Preventive medicine

To finish up the cleaning, I like to put a few drops of Pacer Technologies' Rail Zip on each rail head at various places along the main line; then run the loco around in circles to spread it around. This keeps the rails and wheels clean, and keeps the oxidation from forming to a minimum.

Locomotive work

Next, keep your locos in good check. First, remove the cover. If it's steam, there's likely a screw in the smokestack or underneath. If it's diesel, spread the body at the sides to release the pins and pull upward. Now- flip the loco upside down and clean the wheels. I like to use an old X-acto blade to peel off gunk, and usually finish up with an eraser-pad. Also- be sure to oil the loco's moving parts as the instructions say to. Use a thin oil, like 3-in-1.

Occasionally (like annually) you may need to clean the commutator and brushes (where the motor picks up electricity). I like to run the loco slowly without the body on and keep a rag with cleaner over the commutator as it spins. You may need to get a can of tv tuner cleaner (sold at electronic stores) and spray some on the brushes. Let it drip off, and wipe the area clean and dry. Put the body back on.

The tracks and MOW

While you're doing this, check the rail joiners and turnouts for any signs of damage or wear. Also go over your wiring to make sure it'll last. I also periodically check my freight cars, especially if they tend to derail a lot. Repairs can be made with parts from your hobby shop.

Rolling stock

So the rails shine and the locos run, but it all messes up again quickly? Maybe you need to clean your freight car's wheels. The easiest method is to mount a straight section of track on a 2x4 scrap- about 18 inches long is excellent. Put a paper towel over the rails heads, and then drip on some rubbing alcohol. Next, dribble on some Goo-Gone, by name- a citrus miracle fluid. Run the cars back and forth a couple times, and check the progress. The wheels will look shiny and new.
 Simple cleaner described above

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