Top Ten Digital Photography Tips
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Top Ten Digital Photography Tips
by Derrick Story, author of Digital Photography Pocket Guide, 3rd
Edition
10/22/2002
Revised 09/06/2005, 11/05/03
You've heard this before: Digital cameras do all the work. You just
push the button and great pictures magically appear. The better the
camera, the better the photos. Isn't that right? Heck no!
The truth is that you can make great photos with a simple consumer
point-and-shoot camera, or take lousy shots with the most expensive
Nikon. It's not the camera that makes beautiful images; it's the
photographer. With a little knowledge and a willingness to make an
adjustment here and there, you can squeeze big time photos out of the
smallest digicam.
To help you down the road to great image making, here are ten tips that
will enable you shoot like a pro (without maxing out your credit card
on all that expensive equipment).
1. Warm Up Those Tones
Have you ever noticed that your shots sometimes have a cool, clammy
feel to them? If so, you're not alone. The default white balance
setting for digital cameras is auto, which is fine for most snapshots,
but tends to be a bit on the "cool" side.
When shooting outdoor portraits and sunny landscapes, try changing your
white balance setting from auto to cloudy. That's right, cloudy. Why?
This adjustment is like putting a mild warming filter on your camera.
It increases the reds and yellows resulting in richer, warmer pictures.
Figure 1a is shot outdoors in a mountain environment with the white
balance set to auto. Figure 1b shows warmer tones thanks to using the
"cloudy" setting and a pair of Costa Del Mar sunglasses over the front
lens. (Canon PowerShot S200, Program mode)
Figure 1a.
Figure 1b.
If you don't believe me, then do a test. Take a few outdoor shots with
the white balance on auto, then take the same picture again with the
setting on cloudy. Upload the images to your computer and look at them
side by side. My guess is that you'll like the warmer image better.
2: Sunglasses Polarizer
If you really want to add some punch to your images, then get your
hands on a polarizing filter. A polarizer is the one filter every
photographer should have handy for landscapes and general outdoor
shooting. By reducing glare and unwanted reflections, polarized shots
have richer, more saturated colors, especially in the sky.
What's that you say? Your digital camera can't accommodate filters.
Don't despair. I've been using this trick for years with my
point-and-shoot cameras. If you have a pair of quality sunglasses, then
simply take them off and use them as your polarizing filter. Place the
glasses as close to the camera lens as possible, then check their
position in the LCD viewfinder to make sure you don't have the rims in
the shot.
If your camera doesn't accept filters, then you can still achieve the
effects of a polarizer by placing your sunglasses over the lens. Figure
2a is shot normally without any filtration. Figure 2b is shot during
the same session, but with sunglasses placed over the lens. Notice the
enhanced colors and deeper sky tones. (Canon PowerShot S200, Program
mode)
Figure 2a.
Figure 2b.
For the best effect, position yourself so the sun is over either your
right or left shoulder. The polarizing effect is strongest when the
light source is at a 90-degree angle from the subject.
3. Outdoor Portraits That Shine
One of the great hidden features on digital cameras is the fill flash
or flash on mode. By taking control of the flash so it goes on when you
want it to, not when the camera deems it appropriate, you've just taken
an important step toward capturing great outdoor portraits.
In flash on mode, the camera exposes for the background first, then
adds just enough flash to illuminate your portrait subject. The result
is a professional looking picture where everything in the composition
looks good. Wedding photographers have been using this technique for
years.
Figure 3. By placing the subjects in the open shade beneath a tree and
turning on the fill flash, both the boys and the background are
properly exposed. (Canon PowerShot G2, 1/250th at f-4, flash on)
After you get the hang of using the flash outdoors, try a couple
variations on this theme by positioning the subject so the sun
illuminates the hair from the side or the back, often referred to as
rim lighting. Another good technique is to put the model in the shade
under a tree, then use the flash to illuminate the subject. This keeps
the model comfortable and cool with no squinty eyes from the harsh sun,
and this often results in a more relaxed looking portrait.
Remember, though, that most built-in camera flashes only have a range
of 10 feet (or even less!), so make sure you don't stand too far away
when using fill flash outdoors.
4. Macro Mode Madness
Remember as a kid discovering the whole new world beneath your feet
while playing on the grass? When you got very close to the ground, you
could see an entire community of creatures that you never knew existed.
These days, you might not want to lie on your belly in the backyard,
but if you activate the close up mode on your digital camera and begin
to explore your world in finer detail, you'll be rewarded with fresh
new images unlike anything you've ever shot before.
Even the simplest object takes on new fascination in macro mode. And
the best part is that it's so easy to do with digital cameras.
Figure 4. Nature looks much different, and sometimes more compelling,
at close range. (Canon PowerShot G2, Programmed exposure, spot meter,
Close Up mode, flash off)
Just look for the close up or macro mode icon, which is usually a
flower symbol, turn it on, and get as close to an object as your camera
will allow. Once you've found something to your liking, hold the
shutter button down halfway to allow the camera to focus. When the
confirmation light gives you the go ahead, press the shutter down the
rest of the way to record the image.
Keep in mind that you have very shallow depth of field when using the
close up mode, so focus on the part of the subject that's most
important to you, and let the rest of the image go soft.
5. Horizon Line Mayhem
For some mysterious reason, most human beings have a hard time holding
the camera level when using the LCD monitors on their digicams. The
result can be cockeyed sunsets, lopsided landscapes, and tilted towers.
Part of the problem is that your camera's optics introduce distortion
when rendering broad panoramas on tiny, two-inch screens. Those trees
may be standing straight when you look at them with the naked eye, but
they seem to be bowing inward on your camera's monitor. No wonder
photographers become disoriented when lining up their shots.
Figure 5. How do you square up an image in the LCD viewfinder so it
appears "level" when you view it later on the computer? Look for
nature's horizontal lines and use them as guides. Sometimes you can use
the line where the sky meets the ocean, other times you can use a strip
of land as your level. In this case I used the shoreline of a mountain
lake to help me align this composition. (Canon PowerShot G2, Aperture
Priority exposure set to f-8, polarizer filter)
What can you do? Well, there's no silver bullet to solve all of your
horizon line problems, but you can make improvements by keeping a few
things in mind.
First of all, be aware that it's important to capture your images as
level as possible. If you're having difficulty framing the scene to
your liking, then take your best shot at a straight picture, reposition
the camera slightly, take another picture, and then maybe one more with
another adjustment. Chances are very good that one of the images will
"feel right" when you review them on the computer. Simply discard the
others once you find the perfectly aligned image.
If you practice level framing of your shots, over time the process will
become more natural, and your percentage of level horizon lines will
increase dramatically.
6: Massive Media Card
When you're figuring out the budget for your next digital camera, make
sure you factor in the purchase of an additional memory card. Why?
Because the cards included with your new high-tech wonder toy are about
as satisfying as an airline bag of peanuts when you're dying of hunger.
If you have a 3 megapixel camera, get at least a 256MB card, 512MBs for
4 megapixel models, and 1GB for for 6 megapixels and up.
That way you'll never miss another shot because your memory card is
full.
7: High Rez All the Way
One of the most important reasons for packing a massive memory card is
to enable you to shoot at your camera's highest resolution. If you paid
a premium price for a 6 megapixel digicam, then get your money's worth
and shoot at 6 megapixels. And while you're at it, shoot at your
camera's highest quality compression setting too.
Why not squeeze more images on your memory card by shooting a lower
resolution and low quality compression settings? Because you never know
when you're going to capture the next great image of the 21st century.
And if you take a beautiful picture at the low 640 x 480 resolution,
that means you can only make a print about the size of a credit card,
not exactly the right dimensions for hanging in the museum.
Related Reading
Digital Photography Pocket Guide
By Derrick Story
Table of Contents
Index
Read Online--Safari Search this book on Safari:
Code Fragments only
On the other hand, if you recorded the image at 2272 x 1704 (4
megapixels) or larger, then you can make a lovely 8- x 10-inch
photo-quality print suitable for framing or even for gracing the cover
of Time magazine. And just in case you were able to get as close to the
action as you had liked, having those extra pixels enables you to crop
your image and still have enough resolution to make a decent sized
print.
The point is, if you have enough memory (and you know you should), then
there's no reason to shoot at lower resolution and risk missing the
opportunity to show off your work in a big way.
8: Tolerable Tripod
I once overheard someone say, "He must be a real photographer because
he's using a tripod." Well, whether or not you use a tripod has nothing
to do with you being a true photographer. For certain types of shots
though, these three-legged supports can be very useful.
The problem is tripods are a pain in the butt to carry around. They are
bulky, unwieldily, and sometimes downright frustrating. Does the phrase
"necessary evil" come to mind?
For digital shooters there's good news: the UltraPod II by Pedco. This
compact, versatile, ingenious device fits in your back pocket and
enables you to steady your camera in a variety of situations. You can
open the legs and set it on any reasonable flat surface such as a
tabletop or a boulder in the middle of nowhere. But you can also employ
its Velcro strap and attach your camera to an available pole or tree
limb.
Figure 6. The UltraPod II is lightweight and affordable (less than $20
typically).
You might not need a tripod that often, but when you do, nothing else
will work. Save yourself the pain and money of a big heavy lug of a
pod, and check out the svelte UltraPod. Yes, then you too can be a real
photographer.
9: Self Timer Fun
Now that you have your UltraPod in hand, you can explore another
under-used feature found on almost every digital camera: the self
timer. This function delays the firing of the shutter (after the button
has been pushed) for up to 10 seconds, fixing one of the age old
problems in photography: the missing photographer.
Hey, just because you've been donned as the creative historian in your
clan, that doesn't mean that your shining face should be absent from
every frame of the family's pictorial accounting. You could hand your
trusty digicam over to strangers while you jump in the shot, but then
you take the chance of them dropping, or even worse, running off with
your camera.
Instead, attach your UltraPod, line up the shot, activate the self
timer, and get in the picture. This is usually a good time to turn on
the flash to ensure even exposure of everyone in the composition (but
remember that 10 foot flash range limit!). Also, make sure the focusing
sensor is aimed at a person in the group and not the distant
background, or you'll get very sharp trees and fuzzy family members.
Self timers are good for other situations, too. Are you interested in
making long exposures of cars driving over the Golden Gate Bridge at
dusk? Once again, secure your camera on a tripod, then trip the shutter
using the self timer. By doing so, you prevent accidental jarring of
the camera as you initiate the exposure.
10. Slow Motion Water
I come from a family where it's darn hard to impress them with my artsy
pictures. One of the few exceptions happened recently when my sister
commented that a series of water shots I had shown her looked like
paintings. That was close enough to a compliment for me.
What she was responding to was one of my favorite types of photographs:
slow motion water. These images are created by finding a nice
composition with running water, then forcing the camera's shutter to
stay open for a second or two, creating a soft, flowing effect of the
water while all the other elements in the scene stay nice and sharp.
You can create a painterly effect with moving water by mounting your
camera on a tripod and slowing the shutter to an exposure of 1 second
or longer. (Canon PowerShot G2, Aperture priority set to f-8, shutter
speed 1 second, polarizer filter, UltraPod II tripod)
Figure 7a.
Figure 7b.
You'll need a tripod to steady the camera during the long exposure, and
you probably should use the self timer to trip the shutter. If you
camera has an aperture priority setting, use it and set the aperture to
f-8, f-11, or f-16 if possible. This will give you greater depth of
field and cause the shutter to slow down.
Ideally, you'll want an exposure of one second or longer to create the
flowing effect of the water. That means you probably will want to look
for streams and waterfalls that are in the shade instead of the bright
sunlight.
Another trick is to use your sunglasses over the lens to darken the
scene and create even a longer exposure. Plus you get the added bonus
of eliminating distracting reflections from your composition.
Final Thoughts
Most digital cameras, even the consumer point-and-shoot models, have a
tremendous amount of functionality built into them. By applying a
little ingenuity and creativity, you can take shots that will make
viewers ask, "So what kind of camera do you have?"
You can tell them the answer, but inside, you'll know it's not the
camera responsible for those great pictures. It's the photographer.
Derrick Story is the digital media evangelist for O'Reilly, as well as
the author of Digital Photography Hacks and Digital Photography Pocket
Guide. You can listen to his photo podcasts and read his tips at The
Digital Story. Aperture fans might want to check out his co-authored
video training on Lynda.com titled, Aperture 1.5 Beyond the Basics.
Return to the Mac DevCenter.
You probably have a few tricks up your sleeve. Share one or two with
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Showing messages 1 through 170 of 170.
About tiffany lamp
2007-02-07 03:41:50 tiffanymarket [Reply | View]
http://www.tiffany-lamp-lighting.org
(http://www.tiffany-lamp-lighting.org%20)
About the text
2007-02-07 03:40:04 tiffanymarket [Reply | View]
it's very good
Vertical Shooting Steadiness
2007-01-27 14:18:17 TommyTitmouse [Reply | View]
I shoot a lot of candid photos and there is usually little time to set
up a shot, so a tripod is not normally used. BUT, when shooting
vertically, you can steady the camers quite well by orienting the
camera with the release button in the down position and using the thumb
to trip the shutter. That takes a little getting used to, but after a
while it becomes second nature.
If a hard suface is available such as a table top you can use both
elbows as a make-do tripod to steady the camera.
Camera Carrying
2007-01-27 14:05:35 TommyTitmouse [Reply | View]
Most people I've seen carry their camera on a shoulder WITH THE LENS
POINTING FORWARD. This position seems to allow the camera to be bumped
by others, especially in crowds such as at weddings.
I've been carrying my camera on a shoulder with the lens pointing
behind me. My arm hangs back over the camera to protect it. When needed
to shoot I swing the camera to the front, place my arm through the
strap a second time and get the photo.
Camera Bumping
2007-01-27 13:56:57 TommyTitmouse [Reply | View]
I've been shooting for many years, much of which has been in crowed
situations. You only need your camera to be knocked from your hands
once. You then learn a very valuable lesson.
What I learned is to place the strap around my arm TWO times and snug
it firmly, but not tightly. You still have full control of picture
taking. Ane, should you be bumped the camera will remain on your arm.
You may need to lengthen the strap somewhat to comfortably hold the
camera.
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o
2006-12-14 23:57:51 tiffanymarket [Reply | View]
So, cool, I like your blog and your book, you have give me so much help
about this, here, I have a website of tiffany lamp
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Question
2006-11-01 23:14:06 KatMason [Reply | View]
I saw some amazing photos that had a background that was grayscale, but
the object in the middle was colored. It wasn't using focal b&w,
because it looked like the person had turned the whole photo grayscale,
then colored the main object with another color that was different to
the first one. I was wondering if anyone knew how to do this.
Hi! Once I learned how to do this I love it. I work in Adobe Photoshop
Elements
open your file
use your magnetic tool outline the image you want to have color. (this
takes practice)
Then choose "select" from your file menu, then choose "inverse"
then choose "enhancements", choose adjust color and then choose remove.
and there you have it.
Good luck!
Question
2006-11-01 23:11:07 KatMason [Reply | View]
I just saw some amazing photos where the background was grayscale, but
the object in the middle was colored. It wasn't using a focal
b&w... It looked like the whole photo was grayscale, then a persn
had colored the main object with a color of their choice. I was
wondering if anyone knew how to do this?
I use PhotoShopCS and PhotoShopCS2 and this might be similar to
Elements. Here is an easy way without outlining the subject for color.
1st - go to "Hue/Saturation"
2nd - then drag "Saturation" to the far left, then hit enter.
3rd - you now have a new layer (Hue/Saturation). Now, make sure the
"black box" on your tool box is on the bottom.
4th - use your "Erasure" tool and drag it over the subject/item you
want in color.
Good Luck
PB
Relationship between dpi and photo size
2006-10-17 08:26:26 Moggy [Reply | View]
I'm a litte confused about dpi as it relates to resolution. Is it the
same thing, and how does dpi relate to the size of the photo? Is it the
larger the dpi the larger the picture?
Burst Mode Question
2006-09-10 04:59:14 bkist [Reply | View]
When I shoot in burst mode I get a print of small pictures. How do I
print a single picture? Or do I just have to crop out the part I want
to print?
new user
2006-08-29 01:30:38 Novel [Reply | View]
i bought a panasonic lumix DMC FZ7 and am wondering if there is any
sites to help me learn how to take good pics?
new user
2006-09-15 01:52:14 chicoturner [Reply | View]
try the main page(panasonic.com).check the right side of screen for
item "trick & tips. if this is
not right open the page for your camera and check
the right side of the screen again. this gives
varied ideas and suggestions for differing photo
conditions. hope i helped...
new user
2006-08-29 01:30:33 Novel [Reply | View]
i bought a panasonic lumix DMC FZ7 and am wondering if there is any
sites to help me learn how to take good pics?
PhotoFiltre, The Clamp, Polaroid Mini Tabletop Tripod
2006-07-06 08:58:52 FireDog [Reply | View]
For those who can't afford Photoshop et al an excellent "free" program
is PhotoFiltre ( http://www.photofiltre.com/ ) that runs on Windowz XP
( if you have a Mac with XP it should work ). It has a large number of
free plugins available for most everyone's general needs.
I am always on the look out for a handy little clamp device designed
for cameras with a standard thread ... I have found most of mine in
thrift stores or camera store bins. It is essentually a small C clamp
with the appropriate foot with the 1/4" screw. I add a rubber washer to
the top surface for grip. It has a tilt adjustment up and down.
http://www.clamperpod.com/ if you can't find one in a thrift store.
An the last item to be on the look out for a is the Polaroid Tabletop
Mini Tripod. Polaroid had for its SX70 and early 600 series cameras
with a tripod mount. It folds up like the one you have on the page.
Adding a Velcro wrap should be easy. It has a tilt head that is a ball
so it's very handy.
Learning Your Digital Camera's Tricks
2006-06-12 08:34:21 digitutor [Reply | View]
I find that the EXIF information is great for learning the difference
between settings. Almost all digital cameras record several settings in
a header within the photo file. The header is called EXIF, or sometimes
"metadata," and usually includes shutter speed, aperture, ISO, EV
compensation, and perhaps a couple dozen more, depending on camera.
If the software that came with the camera won't show you this
information, look in your photo editor for "camera information." You
can also find several free- or shareware programs that will get the
information for you. Use your browser search capability to find "EXIF."
It sounds highly technical, and may seem intimidating, but it's not
hard to get into it and there's nothing like it for remembering what
you did differently on two pictures of the same subject that obviously
came out much differently.
Question
2006-06-11 15:06:41 Alicia_Renae [Reply | View]
Is there any way I can super impose a picture on top of another
picture, like make them kinda see through? I shot a bald eagle and also
an American flag and I want to put the eagle over the flag so you can
still see the entire flag underneith.
If you have a photo editor that supports layers (such as Photoshop or
Elements; there are others), open the flag picture. Separately in the
same program, open the eagle. Select the eagle (all of the picture or
just part) and copy it. Return to the flag, and paste. In some
programs, you have to create a new layer before you can paste to it; in
others, the Edit menu has a choice to paste a new layer. Sometimes,
just the paste (CTRL + V) command automatically makes a new layer with
the pasted information.
Next, set the transparency level of the eagle to 50%, or whatever else
looks good.
You will have to merge the layers (may be called "Flatten Image")
before you can save it as a JPG.
Camera Filter
2006-06-11 15:02:17 Alicia_Renae [Reply | View]
I used to model many moons ago and a trick I saw photographers use to
create that filtered romantic look is to stretch pantyhose over the
lense and secure with a rubberband. Dont ask me what brand...and use
regular nude color. No fishnets.
Camera Filter
2006-06-11 15:02:09 Alicia_Renae [Reply | View]
I used tp model many moons ago and a trick I saw photographers use to
create that filtered romantic look is to stretch pantyhose over the
lense and secure with a rubberband. Dont ask me what brand...and use
regular nude color. No fishnets.
Panasonic DMC-FZ4
2006-03-15 16:09:58 canadainbmxer [Reply | View]
I have recenty bount a Pan. DMC - FZ4 i love it its 4 Mgp, its got a
high speed shutter setting and other many great settings i was just
wondering thought, i ride bmx, and im like me and my friends camera
man, i love doing it just i can never find the right angle's to make
the picture look awesome . got any idea's on how i would make a better
photographer?.
blowing out highlights
2006-02-10 09:00:28 juddfischer [Reply | View]
I find that photos from both my canon eos digital rebel and my pentax
optio often lose detail in the highlights even when I try and expose
for the highlights. Any suggestions? Thanks
blowing out highlights
2006-06-14 09:02:44 JCiccone [Reply | View]
you might have a setting like I have on my Nikon D50...called
'highlights' which flashes any blown out areas on the screen (right
after exposure)..if there are any blown-out areas..re-shoot with small
arperture or faster shutter speed.
Camera settings
2005-10-15 21:34:25 badexposure [Reply | View]
I have bought a new Sony DSC-H1 and am having a difficult time trying
to take pics of my daughter’s volleyball game. I have tried different
settings and am finding that either the shot is grainy, to dark or the
motion is blurred. I am a novice to say the least, so if there are any
suggestions to the setting I would be VERY grateful.
Camera settings
2006-06-14 09:08:19 JCiccone [Reply | View]
I own a Canon Power Shot S2 which is very simular to your Sony.
A couple of things I like to use which shooting kids at sports....use
rapid fire (burst mode)
and don't for get to use the camera's ability to shoot motion picture
clips.
Sometimes I find I get better results in either of these 2 modes than
trying to shoot regular still shots. Hope this helps.
Camera settings
2005-12-20 14:15:24 lao270 [Reply | View]
The aperture needs to be in the f1.4-1.7 range to acheive the results
you want. Allowing in more light (f1.4) allows ISO 400-800 for a High
School gym. For indoor sports 1/125 is the slowest you can go (IMO).
These settings are W/out flash. Unless you strobe the whole gym
(impossible unless you're Nike) then flash won't look right. The
players may expose right but everything else will be too dark. A lot of
camera's will only sync to 1/60th which is too slow for sports.
It all starts with the right lens. Without that, you will always be
frustrated.
Camera settings
2005-11-22 09:42:16 BasketballMom [Reply | View]
This has been an ongoing problem for me. I don't know a lot about
cameras, but as you, I'm trying to figure this out.
Recently I viewed some basketball game pictures a fellow parent took,
that were able to stop the action, and were still bright and colorful.
He had manually set his aperture to 1.8 with a 1/250 exposure time. I
was excited about this revelation. When I got home, I quickly pulled
out my Olympus 700, and played around with the manual settings.
Unfortunately, my camera's aperture settings would only go down to 2.8.
I tried some sample pictures this morning (with my daughter bouncing
her basketball in our bright florescently lit garage), and
unfortunately had marginal luck with the 2.8 setting. The best
combination I could come up with (on my camera) was 2.8 at 1/50 shutter
speed. I'll try it in the gym, but I think my solution will
unfortunately need to be finding a digital camera that can go down to
the completely open 1.8 aperture(to provide enough light), an adequate
zoom, and a minimal delay between when I hit the shutter, to when the
picture actually is taken. At this point, I don't know what cameras can
do that (and I'm on my 6th digital camera over the past 10 years).
If anyone out there has suggestions for me or "badexposure", please
respond. I, too, would be very grateful.
Camera settings
2006-06-14 09:14:50 JCiccone [Reply | View]
simple...you need a Digital SLR camera.
check out the Nikon D50...if you can find one in stock.
The lens aren't that fast but you can shoot at a faster 'film speed'
and still get decent results when shooting the sports your talking
about.
The other solution when using the type of digital your shooting with is
to use it's rapid fire mode...burst mode....usually it will help you
capture a few good photos with each 'burst'
The video clip feature of many non-slr digitals produce great video
clips you can view on your large screen TV...there fun too.
Camera settings
2006-01-03 03:51:58 cam2003 [Reply | View]
This is exactly why people pay lots of money for "fast" lenses,
basketballmom... (Fast here means that the lens can open its aperture
wide - the lower the f-number (e.g. 1.8) the wider the aperture is
open. The wider the lens aperture is open, the more quickly the camera
captures the light ergo the shorter the time required for the shutter
to be open - low shutter speed will freeze action shots.)
Like the advice above, you might want to try setting a higher ASA
number. The higher this number the more quickly the camera captures
light - it is a holdover from the days when you purchased faster film.
Higher ASA will also help you freeze action shots - but at the cost of
some graininess. Good luck!
The amazing S curves
2005-07-05 10:01:45 quicklazydog [Reply | View]
Hi, I always work on the S curves to bring my photos alive.
Alicia
The amazing S curves
2005-09-07 16:06:28 sambeau [Reply | View]
I don't get it?
I think all your photographs looked better before you mucked with them
- especially the first one, and I'm willing to be that they all print
far to dark, especially if put through a CMYK process..
Are you sure this is a good idea?
You are normally far better pushing the middle of the curve towards the
top left to lighten the image. I suspect all you are really doing is
increasing the contrast.
To get a vibrant print that looks like what you see onscreen on the
printed page you need to remove some black to compensate for the lack
of backlight.
This may, of course, be an opinion rather than fact. Try it for
yourself.
The amazing S curves
2006-02-16 19:22:29 LensWiz [Reply | View]
Not so amazing, you lose far too much detail. The after shots appear
over saturated.
Thanks
2005-06-29 13:10:51 Noks [Reply | View]
Great information. you have a great site. - Noks
Sony Cybershot DSCF828
2005-05-25 07:13:44 GitRDone [Reply | View]
This will solve the rest of your troubles
shop ebay 58mm
http://www.expodisc.com
Sony Cybershot DSCF828
2005-06-02 10:04:53 agenzie-investigative [Reply | View]
I purchased an S70 Powershot and I am looking for tips to get the most
out my of camera and my pictures. I am going to be taking a trip to
Alaska, so I want to really be able to capture the beauty and excitment
of the outdoor environment. This camera allows a lot of setting, I need
an easy guide for settings so that I can capture great photo's.
Sony DSC- P92 Capabilities
2005-03-30 06:52:50 mattr2 [Reply | View]
Hey,
I bought a Sony DSC- P92 last yr. I know there is probably more to it
than point and click/Zoom. If I wanted to take outdoor shots I've
always had it set to auto.(point and click etc) When I hear this +0.7
exposure type of settings for things(Light metering) Can I do that??
I've also seen this ISO 100 f/5.6 at 1/640 seconds(how do I do the
timing) like wide angle at f/10 at 1/200 second. I know sooo many
questions, I'm just confused on how to get more out of this
camera(night action shots). If you can help that would B great. Thanks
Matt
Excellent tips. I will need these for my photo-a-day project I'm doing.
Excellent
2005-11-30 05:05:13 copano [Reply | View]
Derrick, I like your tips. Howerver, if I were shooting a scene where a
tripod is needed I would use my Bogen. It is heavy and solid as a rock
with leveling bubbles both ways. Copano
Sony Cybershot DSCF828
2005-01-25 21:28:59 tomandbunny [Reply | View]
I just bought this camera after several point and shoot camera didn't
do the trick. I really love this camera and I am now the envy of all my
friends. I am in no way a professional photographer, however with this
camera I have already been offered 2 jobs for magazines because of the
pictures I am taking. I read that you planned to buy one of these
cameras yourself, I was wondering if you ever did and if so how do you
like it? I am at this time only using the nightshooting for dark indoor
shots with the flash as I work for Night clubs. but it is amazing
quality and I am only using 1% of this camera potential as I am still
learning all the features.
Digital Camera
2005-01-15 01:52:09 safariday [Reply | View]
I am just about to buy a digital camera, and need tips to which one to
buy. I am choosing between Fuji Finepix F810 and Sony DSC P150. The
camera will be used for indoor photos, mainly for household goods to
make a catalogue. any tips? please
Digital Camera
2005-08-09 22:06:20 fhotoace [Reply | View]
Months later, but someone may want to know this ...
“The camera will be used for indoor photos, mainly for household goods
to make a catalogue. Any tips?”
The one great thing about digital cameras is you can change ISO
settings and light source settings in the middle of a shoot. That said,
here is some good news. There is a local FDA certified lab that shoots
their own point of purchase photos which are then added to the bottles
of the product they produce. When they first started doing this, they
used a Nikon Coolpix 990, a seamless table top and three incandescent
lights with soft boxes. You would never know it to see the final images
used at the point of purchase.
Now studios use Canon or Nikon DSLR’s for the quick and easy table
shots or larger format cameras like the Mamiya, Contax 645’s or
Hasselblad with digital backs. Tungsten lighting is the least expensive
setup, but if you have the budget, go for some nice Norman studio
strobes and wireless remotes on your cameras.
Digital Camera
2005-01-16 18:27:50 underworld [Reply | View]
The Sony line is absolutely incredible!!! The P150 and many of their
other models use a Zeiss lens. Zeiss is one of the very top lens
manufacturers in the world. You will be very satisfied with the quality
of the images that can be made using this camera. I have been shooting
professionally for 12 years and that is the camera I am going to buy
for myself for non studio use. There are a few mail order dealers in NY
that have really good prices on these. One is AM Photoworld. If you
have any questions you can contact me at forrepair@37.com
sports photos
2005-01-02 02:03:09 holloB [Reply | View]
hello to all! i use sony digital camera DSCP 100 - 5MP and i have hard
time taking good indoor sport pictures, like bowling or squash..
There is either to much motion on pictures or they apear to dark,
usually objects are not in flash range.
i would apreciate any tips/advices
thanks
greetings!
Indoor sports photos
2005-08-09 21:31:33 fhotoace [Reply | View]
The first two questions are, "Have you done this kind of photography
before using film and have you been more successful with film than with
your digital?"
In the old high school and college days we used to push Tri-x to 1200,
underexpose another third of a stop and shoot wide open with a f/stop
of f/1.4 or f/ 1.8 to get a shutter speed of over 1/250th or use a
flash (couldn't use the flash for conference games). There was grain to
say the least and they were still underexposed, but the requirements
for a newspaper shot were less strict.
Now with digital cameras (high quality, but not pro quality), you deal
with cameras with f/stops of from 3.5 to 5.6 depending upon the focal
length being used for the shot. That puts you down almost four or five
stops at the start of your shoot. Using the same lighting in the first
paragraph, that would mean you would have to shoot (without flash) at
about ISO of 6400 and still be underexposed about a stop and a half.
True, the lighting in the new sports complexes is more even and higher
lux, but don’t expect tight grain and no “action” movement in your
shots.
Take a look at the way the pros shoot at Basketball or Hockey games and
you will see that they camp out at one end of the court (ice) and just
wait for shots. Usually those areas are lit well enough to get
flashless shots or in some cases (staff photographers can do this) use
wireless remote speed lights pre-aimed and mounted up in the lights and
used to capture the action.
Hi. I had the same problem with my son's basketball games. The best I
could do with the camera I had was to set the ISO to 400. This helped
stop the action, but the pictures got grainy. I've just yesterday got a
newer camera, a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ3. It has an incredible 12X zoom,
which I'm hoping will be good for football games. More important to
basketball, though, the camera gives you a choice of shutter-priority,
aperture-priority, manual, or fully automatic modes. (It has a "sports"
mode, but according to the manual that is for outdoor sports with
plenty of light.) Basically, I think you need to learn to use
shutter-priority mode (if your camera has it) to choose a fairly high
shutter speed (maybe around 1/30) and combine that with an ISO speed of
200-400. If your pictures come out slightly under-exposed, you also
have the option of brightening them up a little after you put them on
your computer using your favorite photo software. Your camera may have
other options that might be helpful to you, or you may have to go
shopping for a new one. Good luck.
sports photos
2005-01-12 11:29:56 Greg63376 [Reply | View]
Before somebody else says something, I should say that 1/30 is actually
a fairly slow shutter speed. In better lighting, you'd probably want
more like 1/60 or higher. For a really fast-paced outdoor sport, you'd
want something even higher. (Also, I'm still playing with these
settings myself. I'm no expert.)
sports photos
2005-01-16 18:34:54 underworld [Reply | View]
For lower light scenarios, 1/30 is very good as it allows more existing
light to be recorded whether you are shooting digital or film. Also,
with the longer shutter speed it can allow for the flash to be more
effective. If your camera has a hot shoe you may want to consider an
accessory flash. There are many good quality inexpensive ones made by
Vivitar, Minolta and many other manufacturers.
Need help with lighting
2004-11-10 17:32:12 2gtginc [Reply | View]
Hello all! I have been shooting models for a couple of years with a
digital camera. I started with a Nikon Coolpix 880, and am now using an
Olympus Camedia. The problem is this: Both of these cameras take great
outdoor pics, but indoors, using studio lighting and a flash, the pics
are always extremely pixelated, the colors aren't right when I use a
flash, and there is always redeye when I use a flash. I am desperate to
find out the secret to proper lighting so that my models aren't
shortchanged with less than flattering pics?
Need help with lighting
2006-12-20 05:52:35 tiffanymarket [Reply | View]
http://www.tiffany-lamp-lighting.org/
Need help with lighting
2006-12-20 05:54:42 tiffanymarket [Reply | View]
<url:http://www.tiffany-lamp-lighting.org/>
Need help with lighting
2005-01-02 09:31:53 Piash [Reply | View]
First set your digicams white balance to Daylight mode. Manualy set the
aperture according to the studio flash. If u have a pc socket, its
well. Dont use the built in flashgun. Otherwise use it to sync but
place a white card in front of the flash. So that this light will not
appear into the exposure. Thanks.
Need help with lighting
2005-05-25 07:14:55 GitRDone [Reply | View]
http://www.expodisc.com
Need help with lighting
2006-12-14 23:57:27 tiffanymarket [Reply | View]
So, cool, I like your blog and your book, you have give me so much help
about this, here, I have a website of tiffany lamp
http://www.tiffany-lamp-lighting.org, wish get your help too.
Kodak DX7590
2004-10-21 04:49:47 pappy432 [Reply | View]
i just got my digital camara i was at my daughters choir concert last
night and had some problems with how to set my camara they do not allow
flash and it probrably would not help anyway . i like to sit up high in
the auditorium the problem is the light is so bright on stage do you
have any tips ?
Kodak DX7590
2005-01-16 18:37:14 underworld [Reply | View]
How far away is the stage? Are you able to zoom in sufficiently from
that distance?
high school football night games
2004-10-03 07:52:40 gamehunter5 [Reply | View]
i have a panasonic lumix dmc-fz20 5 mega pixel camera and was wondering
what settings would be good to use to take action shots at the game. i
have tried the sports mode but they come out dark and the other
settings make them blurry.any help would be greatly appreciated.
high school football night games
2004-10-06 00:33:39 holospeed [Reply | View]
I just bought my fz20 last week, and tried it out at a night football
team. I am a rookie, however, I found that if I shot in the sports mode
with the flash on, my shots came out okay. I also put the dial to M
(manual) and on the menu, changed the sensitivity (ISO) to 400. this
worked pretty well also.
high school football night games
2004-10-07 18:26:59 gamehunter5 [Reply | View]
Thanks holospeed for the help i will try the settings out this weekend.
Canon G5 wedding shots
2004-09-11 15:48:15 Ellie [Reply | View]
I just got my G5 and am very happy with it. I'm going to a newphew's
wedding soon (at an seaside town) and want to get some great shots at
the wedding and reception (& the sea). Any quick tips you can give
me, especially for taking the flash pics indoors. Thanks.
One more thing
2004-06-10 17:32:43 Robtygart [Reply | View]
One more thing I have a PC what kind of programs are there for me.
One more thing
2004-09-16 10:05:01 pholdawa [Reply | View]
Photo help For Sony Cyber-Shot
2004-06-10 17:10:40 Robtygart [Reply | View]
<h1>PHOTO HELP</h1>
Is there a web site where I can get extra photo tips for my Sony
Cyber-Shot DSC-f717??
Also What is TIFF? mode I have looked at my camera book and I am still
not sure.
PS Thanks for all the great Ideas.
Photo help For Sony Cyber-Shot
2005-12-20 14:00:04 lao270 [Reply | View]
If you shoot in .RAW, after processing the photo is converted to .TIFF.
Photo help For Sony Cyber-Shot
2005-04-24 15:24:13 BoInks [Reply | View]
If you get a reply to your question, would you be so kind as to share
it with me please? I too have a Sony DSC f717 and was out shooting
photos of moose in the neighborhood about an hour ago and I had some
questions regarding light that I could use help on.
BoInks in Alaska
1a, 1b
2004-05-25 11:55:47 romanticore [Reply | View]
is it just me, or does photo 1a look a lot richer and warmer than photo
1b?
1a, 1b
2005-04-11 06:42:42 aren [Reply | View]
I have a problem with my Sony digital cyber shot stillDSC- F717 CAMERA.
The problem is that the still shots comes with a whit cast over the
picture. Could there be a problem with the white balance adjustment ?.
The videos colours are brilliant and normal. what should i do?
1a, 1b
2005-01-16 18:46:19 underworld [Reply | View]
In 1a the blue trim and the advertisment painted on the wall are more
vivid due to more saturation of blue in a cooler shot. !a is a warmer
shot. Warmer and cooler is very much a part of personal preference. The
best thing to do is to experiment yourself. For film photography, the
primary film I use has a cool balance. For some shots though I use a
warm balanced film.
1a, 1b
2005-01-16 18:50:14 underworld [Reply | View]
The second sentence above should say that 1b is a warmer shot not !a
.....I'm not a typist! ;b
1a, 1b
2004-12-06 13:24:48 Photographyhorse [Reply | View]
I must say i agree. The effect of 1a is much more natural, bright and
normal...the 1b i find personally to look a little blurred
houses
2004-04-22 23:17:07 tomsoda [Reply | View]
I am a realtor taking digital phots with a sony dsc-s75 camera. Every
time I take an exterior photo of a house, I find that there a really
blurry edges to the house. How can I fix this? I have tried to
photoshop without any success. PLEASE HELP!
houses
2005-01-16 19:05:54 underworld [Reply | View]
What settings are you using? What resolution? Is it blurry on your
computer monitor or have you printed any out? If you have some samples,
maybe you can send them to me and I can see exactly what the problem is.
houses
2005-01-16 19:15:23 underworld [Reply | View]
For above....my emsail is forrepair@37.com
Photography for a web site
2004-02-10 06:28:46 neelyrobert [Reply | View]
I'm trying to reproduce the look produced on various web shops where an
item is placed on a white page and looks as if it is just floating
there on the page - for example at http://www.ambermoods.co.uk/shop/
How do you take a picture like that that shows on a white background
with no discernible border between the picture and the page? If you
download the picture into photoshop or fireworks, there doesn't seem to
be anything special about it but I can never get the whites to match!
Please help!
Robert
Photography for a web site
2004-02-11 21:22:44 southdakotafarmer [Reply | View]
You need/can build a "product shot stand". This isn't tough. Do a
search on product photography. When you get to one that is selling
products it will have one in there. I built one using 1x2 lumber and
"Brooder lamps" ($6), a sheet of plexiglass (that is the clear table
top you are going to set the products on) and some nylon curtains. The
floating image is done with a clear or white plexi table that draped
starting at the front and rising to the back well above the product
(look at pictures on the net, You'll get it).You place the product on
this seamless white drape and shoot. Use Photoshop to color correct by
selecting the background as the white reference in Photoshop 7 find
image>adjustments>curves> (lower right hand corner, far right
eye dropper)Set White point and you are now a pro because no matter
what light your using it will come out crisp and very real white with
the other colors balanced to that white point. And you are now a pro
with no shadows and a floating object. OBSERVE ALL COMMON SENSE FIRE
RULES!! THOSE LIGHTS GET HOT. DO NOT PUT LIGHTS AGAINST OR TOO CLOSE TO
DRAPES!! Light it from both sides, the bottom, the top and the back!...
In a perfect world you would also own a Kodak gray Scale or color chart
(~$100) and place that in the corner of the shot and correct to that...
Use nylon drapes to diffuse those lamps and any other diffusers you can
think of...
Photography for a web site
2006-12-14 23:57:58 tiffanymarket [Reply | View]
So, cool, I like your blog and your book, you have give me so much help
about this, here, I have a website of tiffany lamp
http://www.tiffany-lamp-lighting.org, wish get your help too.
Photo 7b
2004-01-16 07:30:36 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Was photo 7b ever in the magazine, Peterson's PHOTOgrapic?
i like...
2004-01-14 10:05:04 m-sikorsky [Reply | View]
i like your article very much and your tips are very useful.
help
2004-01-09 07:22:11 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I am new to digital world. I have a hp Photosmart 320. Iwould like to
take better pictures of flowers and birds. I have 64mb memory card. I'm
below a novice photo taker. I just got a Busnell Imageview binoculars
but taking my first shots of a bird outside my window they came out
dark. Icould see the details but the photos didn't show them. What can
I do to get this shot?
Thank-you for this place I can come to for help.
help
2004-01-09 07:22:10 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I am new to digital world. I have a hp Photosmart 320. Iwould like to
take better pictures of flowers and birds. I have 64mb memory card. I'm
below a novice photo taker. I just got a Busnell Imageview binoculars
but taking my first shots of a bird outside my window they came out
dark. Icould see the details but the photos didn't show them. What can
I do to get this shot?
Thank-you for this place I can come to for help.
Binoculars
2004-01-04 18:18:47 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
A friend suggested shooting through binoculars to maintain resolution
for close-ups rather than using the digital zoom. I was happily
surprised with the result. From indoors I got a shot of a deer's head
& neck, sharper and closer than I could have gotten with the
digital zoom.
sunglasses tip
2004-01-04 04:58:31 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I liked your article very much and especially found the tip about using
your sunglasses as a filter very useful.
Thanks, Michael
Help and Thanks
2003-12-13 05:45:05 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Thank you for replying to my message regarding the Pentax 555, I
purchased your Pocket Guide book last evening through Amazon.com for
that help. The question I now have regards a site or info that explains
things in detail that a lay person can understand. Like in camera specs
one see something like "Aperture Range f 2.8-f4.6" what do these
numbers mean and what are they based on, and/or discribed in a way to
easely understand? Again thank you.
camera
2003-12-12 13:04:59 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I am new at this digital photography and have been using a Minolta
Dimage 2330. I have been very happy with it but am planning on
purchasing a Pentax Optio 555. What are your feelings on this camera.
Most of my photos are outdoors of landscape and wildlife. Thank you
Maine USA
RE: camera
2003-12-12 13:30:17 derrick [Reply | View]
I've heard good things about the Pentax. If you like to shoot wildlife
though, you might want to save a few more dollars and get the Canon
Digital Rebel which accepts dozens and dozens of lens, including some
very nice and affordable zoom telephotos.
RE: camera
2005-02-07 10:51:59 PostTalkbacks [Reply | View]
hi
3D Digital
2003-11-30 17:34:22 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I found the tips on slow motion water very helpful.Could I please now
have some tips on 3D Digital, using Photoshop Elements.My camera is a
Fuji Finepix 602 zoom.I am a novice at both photography and computer.
G'day from down under.
3D Digital
2003-11-30 17:22:23 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I found the tips for slow-motion very successful. Could you please give
me any tips using 3D digital with the Photoshop Elements program?
Great Article
2003-11-21 21:38:41 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
This article had a lot of good info for beginners to digital
photography. I look forward to seeing some more. www.sultaz.com
Action photos (indoor)
2003-11-18 03:30:08 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I have a Sony Mavica 400. I was very happy with my outdoor pictures
from cross-country, but now we've moved indoors for basketball. My
picture quality is very poor, and the images are dark. Do I need an
external flash? I am a novice...
I am somewhat of a novice myself. I have the sony mavica cd500 and also
the sony hvl-f32x flash. The flash does help somewhat indoors, but
remember you will be limited in the distance you can shoot. I have
found indoor events, especially basketball to be usually well lit. Try
going to manual mode (M), click on menu and choose 400 speed, roll your
dial and choose F2.2, roll down to the speed choice and choose as fast
a speed as you can an still maintain at least -1.0EV. Hopefully, your
speed will be 250 or better. If it is, you should get pretty good shots
with prints that are not going to be any larger than 4 x 6. Let me know
how it turns out.
joepaula@aol.com
RE: Action photos (indoor)
2003-11-18 11:35:13 derrick [Reply | View]
Yes, many share your pain...
The first thing to remember is that your camera's built in flash is
generally only effective to about 8 feet. Anything beyond that is out
of range, which will most likely result in underexposure. So you have 4
basic options:
1) Get within 8 feet when using the built-in flash.
2) Increase your ISO speed to 400. This will extend your flash range to
12 feet or more.
3) Use the "night time flash" mode. This only works for still subjects
though, not action shots. With action photography in this mode you will
get some very artistic blurring, which is interesting, but probably not
what you want.
4) Get an external flash for your camera that will extend the range
considerably.
Hope this helps...
Thanks from a raw beginner
2003-11-17 08:27:05 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Thanks. Your article had some great tips for a raw beginner like me. I
read the comments and I'm sure that many who suggested alternate
techniques have more experience. However, simple ideas like using
sunglasses make sense as starting point. As others have said, having
instant feedback with a digital camera makes it easy to experiment. I
would never have the patience to try these things out with traditional
film cameras.
RE: Thanks from a raw beginner
2003-11-17 10:13:34 derrick [Reply | View]
I agree, and it goes even beyond experimentation. Another aspect of
digital photography that accelerates learning is recording of
"metadata." Every time you take a picture, the shutter speed, f-stop,
white balance setting, flash mode, ISO, and more are captured and
stored with the picture. Later, when viewing your images, this makes it
much easier to analyze what went wrong... and right. If you're
interested in reading more about this, take a look at my article, Use
Metadata to Improve Your Pictures. Best of luck with your shooting!
I have a Sony DCR-TRV33 camcorder with built in Digital Camera .
2003-11-12 17:19:05 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
What can I do with my camera to get good quality fotos?I would
apreciate it if you would respond.Thanks.
tip 1: red color casting
2003-11-11 09:04:40 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
in tip 1. you say to use cloudy as a white balance setting and all it
did was shift it into a red color cast. look at the whites on the side
of the building. this sort of effect distorts the origanal image.
something you can always do with photshop, but much better.
RE: tip 1: red color casting
2003-11-17 10:21:20 derrick [Reply | View]
You have to keep a couple things in mind. First, I have no idea how the
image looks on your computer. There is a wide variance in rendering for
machine to machine.
Second, yes, you can do just about anything in Photoshop. But that's
not the point. One of the things that I emphasize in my workshops is
mastering your input device, the camera, so you don't have to spend
time adjusting images in Photoshop. This accelerates your workflow
considerably and lets you focus on creativity instead of constantly
fiddling with adjustments just to get the image you saw in your head in
the first place.
Whether or not you like a particular in-camera effect isn't the issue.
Knowing what's there and how to use it is.
Top 10 Digital Photography Tips
2003-11-04 16:22:16 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I really enjoyed this article. Thank you
hagancharlie@hotmail.com
Photo 7b in your article
2003-10-27 03:20:52 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Is it possible to have a copy of that photo?
Kusminder Chahal
kushchahal@aol.com
RE: Photo 7b in your article
2003-11-05 23:32:56 derrick [Reply | View]
Hi, You can email me at derrick@oreilly.com and let me know what you
want.
-Derrick
Using a camera where no flash is allowed
2003-10-05 15:30:42 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
My husband gave me a Sony cyber Shot DSC-p10 for my birthday (5.0 mega
pixels). I love it and I am a novice when it comes to photograpy. I was
disappointed with my Nikon coolpix 2500, the previous digital camera. I
think it had 2.5 mega pixels. One nice thing it did have was a museum
mode but since the low pixels many shots at St. Peters Basilica were
poor and that was a once in a lifetime trip. There is no museum mode on
the new Sony. How do I get good shots with no flash in these fantastic
indoor places? I am very much aware of not flashing the beautiful
paintings.... ie..the museum mode. We need a book on this subject
alone. I loved your article. You make it very understandable. Thankyou,
Maureen
Using a camera where no flash is allowed
2003-11-07 06:26:23 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Actually my wife and I were at St Peters Basilica this summer as well.
As one of the other poster's mentioned you can just turn the flash off.
This worked great for us. We had a Canon Power Shot 200 I think (it was
2 mega pixel, I get mixed up with the different model numbers.)
My question and slightly off topic is how to get the same pictures to
turn out with a 35mm camera. We had both and all of the digital
pictures were great and the 35mm were a bust. I suppose a slower speed
film would help (I think we were using 200) but we didn't have a tripod
so keeping the camera still would be hard. Am I missing something nice
and simple?
RE: Using a camera where no flash is allowed
2003-11-07 13:37:13 derrick [Reply | View]
For film cameras, you would want a faster speed film in low light
situations with the flash turned off. ISO 800 speed print film and 400
speed slide film are much improved these days over just a few years
ago.
Then find a steady surface to rest the camera on, put it in program
mode, and use the self-timer to trip the shutter. You should get pretty
good images that way.
Using a camera where no flash is allowed
2003-10-15 09:29:57 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I am using a sony DSC- V1 wich Im sure is similar to the on you are
using. When taking pitctures with no flash the slow the shutter speed
is the more light you will get in the picture. Practice this at home in
a dimly lit room and without a flash change the shutter speed settings
on your camera. The manual you got with the camera should explain this
more in detail. As an example while at the carlsbad cavers in NM i
found that my flash was useless because the cavern walls were so far
away it would not reflect off of them. I found that slowing the shutter
speed down and playing with my settings a little bit I could adjust the
light absorbtion to what ever level I wanted. The only downside to this
is that if you move the camera at all the picture is blurred, so it is
very important to either use a tripod or rest yourself on something. In
a museum the lighting problem is not near as drastic as in a almost
pitch dark cavern so you will not need to hold the camera still as
long. just remember to light a room in your house as you think a museum
would be lit and practice on your favorite wall hanger till you get the
settings down. Also remember to write yourself notes for each picture
you take. This comes in very handy when trying to remember what
settings you used in different light situations. Take a pic, take a
note, and so on. It seems like a lot of work but once you get the hang
of it you wont need the notes anymore and you will be able to shoot a
good picture in any lighting situation, flash or no flash. I hope this
helps. Any questions for me feel free to email me at
danboy_21@hotmail.com
Using a camera where no flash is allowed
2003-10-06 20:05:11 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
SET THE FLASH TO "OFF" OR CANCEL. LET THE CAMERA FIGURE OUT THE REST. TW
photographing fast action at night
2003-09-30 17:55:41 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Do you have any tips on how to take pictures of fast action sports,
like football, at night. I have a Sony Mavica CD400 and do not know
what settings should be used.
Jen
photographing fast action at night
2004-02-25 18:23:59 arlokh [Reply | View]
photographing fast action at night
2003-10-17 21:38:02 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I have a canon 10d. I shoot sanctioned auto races at a local track. As
you may imagine the lighting is poor and the cars are passing me at
about 90 Mph. I use a Fast lens (Sigma 70-300, with f/2.8 all the way
through) and bump the ISO to about 2000 without a flash, or 400 with a
flash. So try bumping up the ISO.
Hope it works
Circular Polarizer
2003-09-28 03:14:34 pgunn178 [Reply | View]
There seems to be something I don't understand about Polarization.
I recently purchased a Circular Polarizer for my Sony DSC-F717 Digital
Camera. How do I know what the effect the filter will have on the
picture when rotating the filter to various positions? The image
displayed in the View-screen and View-finder remain the same.
Circular Polarizer
2003-11-10 10:19:14 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Most polarizers are in a rotating mount so that you can rotate them on
the lens and see the effect.
It can help if you put a small piece of tape, white paint/white nail
polish on the outside, rotating ring.
That way, you can take the filter, hold it to your eye and see the
effect. Note where the white mark is located, then when you put the
filter on the lens, place the white mark where it was when you looked
through it. If you move, look through the filter again!
Don't forget too that polarizers carry a 2 stop penalty in exposure.
That means if you are using apature priority camera, you lose shutter
speed. If anything's moving, well it could blur. If you have shutter
priority, then you lose depth. The key might be to increase your
digital film speed if you can.
Circular Polarizer
2003-10-31 10:11:18 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
it's not easy but you can see a change in the LCD view screen if you
look close and if you are shooting a subject that will "polarize" (you
wont see a change in a white wall but a blue sky with some clouds
should work) i also use an "extend-a-view" over my LCD to make it
easier (see http://www.photosolve.com/main/product/
xtendaview/index.html
Make adjustments afterwards
2003-09-08 23:15:16 richardtaylor [Reply | View]
One of the great advantages of digital photography is that you can make
adjustments afterwards. Like rotating the picture so the horizon is
horizontal. (I always get my horizon at an angle.) Also you can adjust
the color balance and the contrast. Adjusting the contrast to use the
whole range will often make a picture much clearer. OTOH fill in flash
is useful when not overdone, as it is a pain to do later on.
Panning Photos
2003-08-26 12:44:26 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I took your class at macworld, you showed how to do the panning
techique similar to ken burns., can you point me to the info for that i
can't seem to find any info. great class by the way.
thanks
Panning Photos
2003-11-05 23:35:58 derrick [Reply | View]
There's a great piece of software for Mac OS X users called StillLife
by Granted Software. It's a terrific way to create those Ken Burns pans
and zooms.
Night Shots via Digital Cam
2003-08-01 10:18:17 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I recently purchased the Sony DSC-F717 Digital Camera. I have taken
many photos at the 640 * 480 resolution (halifax.floppycity.com) though
the cam can take up to 5-Mega Pixel shots. What I enjoyed most about
your artical is the use of the 'macro' mode and 'Slow Motion Water'
photo tip. Would you consider adding info regarding night shots and
firework shots with the Digital Cam too - thanks
(johntwallace@hotmail.com).
nice info
2003-07-22 15:01:33 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
no matter what level your at if you can deliver a basic informative
tips for the beginner or the pro, you can always appreciate the basics
alot better. I love the sunglasses.And it saves lots of money.And it
gives good pics. So from me thanks for your expertise
Top 10 Digital Photography Tips
2003-07-11 09:06:14 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
This is great article, I realy learnt alot of usefull things from it. I
hope that in the future you can put out more of these, thanks alot.
Picture Resolution
2003-04-23 10:08:13 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Your coment: "The point is, if you have enough memory (and you know you
should), then there's no reason to shoot at lower resolution and risk
missing the opportunity to show off your work in a big way" adds to my
confusion about digital photography. I mainly take fishing pictures for
my website. To avoid long download times I try to get the picture files
down to about 20K. I had great 35mm shots which scanned/compressed
nicely to 20K. I can't decided what to do for digital settings to get
the same results. thanks dan@captaindan.com
Picture Resolution
2004-01-06 14:12:48 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I would suggest saving an origional digital image master in the highest
resolution and dpi possible. I usually import and save mine in
photoshop elements. If you are printing on your own photo quality
printer, I like to stay around 240 dpi as a guideline. On most 5 mega
pixels cameras you will maintain at least this dpi even after cropping.
Multiplying your height by width will give you the desired resolution
guideline. (example 5 x 7 photo is 1500 by 2100 at a 300 dpi
resolution. I upload some of my shots to mpix.com for professional
prints and have found the same guideline to be sufficient for lab
quality prints.
Here's a not for those of you who use the Fuji photo processing machine
at Wal Mart. IT DOESN'T RECOGNIZE ANYTHING OVER 300 DPI. You are
wasitng your time trying to print anything with any greater dpi than
that. Hope this helps.
Picture Resolution
2003-10-14 04:02:20 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
if you use Macromedia Fireworks MX and go through this route
File\Export there should be steps to save your image at web quality.
Also, there is a function through this route to specify the file size
which you want.
If you use microsoft photo editor and go to save as, select .jpg then
click on the "more" button and select the quality manually. 50-70% is
good enough.
Picture Resolution
2003-04-25 11:26:18 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Hi there,
On some high-end digital cameras, you have the option of saving the
picture in both resolutions: hi and email. The email-picture is the
compressed version of that picture. If you don't have that option with
your camera, then you'd have to use a picture eiting software to
compress it manually. The best one is Adobe Photoshop, but there are
many less expensive and easy-to-use software for the consumers out
there.
Picture Resolution -- Protect Your Master File
2003-04-23 17:46:32 derrick [Reply | View]
I understand the initial confusion. Here's the way I explain it in my
workshops. Think of the "high resolution" shot that you originally
recorded with your camera as your "digital negative." This "master"
enables you too make a photo-quality print, if you choose, at the
maximum size your camera allows (5x7 for 2 megapixel, 8x10 for 3
megapixel, etc).
But, in this case, you want to use those same images for your website.
So then you open your "master" in an image editor, such as Photoshop
Elements, make a copy of it (Save As), then resample down that copy so
it is a small, web-servable file.
Your original image is safe and sound so you can always return to it
for other uses.
The thing to remember is to keep your master files at high resolution,
then make copies of them.
I hope this helps...
digital development
2003-04-07 09:18:55 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I read about your web site in this mornings St.Petersburg Times. I have
just viewed it and it is fabulous for outdoor photographers. However, I
have a new 2 megapixel camera, purchased for the sole purpose of
putting pictures into my pc. as a selling agent on ebay. I am not very
good at taking pictures, so could you give me some ideas, of where I
can get help, with my particular solution. My camera has a dock, which
supposedly only requires my pressing a button to transfer the images to
my pc. Sounds easy. I hope it is. Thank You
digital development - buy my book :)
2003-04-23 17:48:30 derrick [Reply | View]
Well, a good start would be my book, The Digital Photography Pocket
Guide, available on Amazon.com for about $10.50 US :)
wow.
2003-04-03 13:28:18 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
A real down to earth article. Well thought out, easy to follow clear
instructions, good tips. Thanks for your advice. Mabye you WILL see
some of my pictures on Time magazine someday. -mike
wow.
2003-04-23 17:49:23 derrick [Reply | View]
If you do make Time mag, you better send me a copy!
i dunno..
2003-03-26 13:26:36 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
The first couple of examples don't seem that useful to me. By turning
the white balance to cloudy, the picture seems to look worse since the
colors aren't sharp and nothing is defined well. The other photo with
polorizing thru sunglasses also tends to look worse to me.
oreilly@suppafly.net
i dunno..
2003-11-07 07:34:18 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I would agree that in the second photo with the cloudy wb setting the
color went magenta. However, in different shots with different cameras,
this may help a lot. In the second shot with the poloarizer, it also
went magenta. Did you change the wb setting with this photo? It could
be that the glasses weren't a neutral grey.
I would also agree that most outdoor photos have a washed look to them,
which is unfortunate. I find that a neutral density filter works best
for me (I have a Canon G4). People should experiment. With digital
cameras, there's no such thing as wasting film!
If you can get better color saturation, you can always adjust the color
balance via software. It's not always possible to get it right the
first time. Kudos to Derrick for discussing some of the features that
are available on these cameras.
i dunno..
2003-03-26 14:51:42 derrick [Reply | View]
Interesting. Those have been the most popular tips. Many people have
contacted me directly to comment how the "cloudy" setting has changed
their outdoor shooting for the better. You might want to consider a new
camera... :)
i dunno..
2003-04-22 04:59:46 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Instead of using tricks like that, why not learn proper exposure
technique to prevent overexposure like that :)
i dunno..
2003-03-26 15:47:35 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
i'd agree with that first 'anonymous' guy.
the second image is way too pink... look at the painted sign on the
building, i'm sure it should have a pretty neutral white background.
The first image looks much more natural.
then again, maybe it's just my monitor?
i dunno..
2003-03-28 09:35:37 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I like this article and got some good ideas. These are "tips". You use
the ones you like and forget about the others. The fun is in learning
what works for you.
Manual whitebalance on color cards & natural elements
2003-02-18 13:35:18 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
You can print, buy or in another way get hold of some colored cards,
preferably light tones, but hard dark ones can create some interesting
effects too.
To warm up your picture a bit, set the whitebalance on light blue. To
make it redhot, use dark blue.
For black and white to increase contrast? Set it on orange or yellow.
These are only some examples.
I've got a map of colors in my bag, used by professional painters to
show colors or to check colors. There are similar things for roof
panels and such.
You can also use objects in the shooting environment. People's shirts,
curtains, grass etc.
Of course it can all be done with spot editing, but it is often useful
to be able to check the effect on the spot.
Azrifel
Manual whitebalance on color cards & natural elements
2003-02-20 08:26:26 derrick [Reply | View]
Yeah, I think it's fun to play with white balance in digital
photography, primarily because you get to preview the effects right
after you take the shot.
I like your idea of bouncing different colored reflections on to the
subject. This could be particularly interesting as "fill reflection,"
on the shadow side of the person you're shooting.
You can also do some interesting things with bounce flash and colored
reflectors ...
PrintSix Photo Printing Software For Windows
2003-01-24 17:43:15 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Print SIX different digital pictures on a single page and create
beautiful PRINTED photo album pages from your digital pictures with
PrintSix… The world’s #1 choice in easy-to-use digital photo printing
software for everyone. Also print 2x3’s, 3½x5’s, 4x6’s, 5x7’s
and 8x10’s and frame your favorites in a standard-size picture frame.
Featuring easy to use "Pre-Formatted" page templates, printing your
digital photos has never been easier! Several versions are available…
Please visit http://www.sixdigitalphotos.com for ordering information
and internet specials.
PrintSix Photo Printing Software For Windows
2003-12-07 13:13:31 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
PrintSix Photo Printing Software For Windows
2004-01-19 13:45:16 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I recently purchased a digital camera and phot software. I would like
to create a picture that has a photo on photo but can't seem to do it,
like a double exposure print.
Is there a trick to this or any suggestions?
just starting
2002-12-08 17:05:59 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Just in the process of learning how to use a digital camera. I found
these tips to be informative and I'm even more excited about the
possibilities. Thank for taking the time to make this site possible.
Fill the Frame
2002-11-24 11:49:56 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
One of the most important tips is to always try to fill the frame with
your subject. Also, look at the corners of the frame to make sure
nothing is in the way, such as fingers, doors or other unknown objects.
Fill the Frame
2002-12-10 17:29:48 derrick [Reply | View]
Yes, not only fill the frame, but as you say, scan the entire area
before shooting (if you have time to). Nothing worse than a telephone
pole coming out of the top of grandma's head.
Fill the Frame
2003-09-21 17:40:15 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I agree with derrick, you should carefully scan the surrounding area
before you take the picture because you might miss something that might
screw up the picture. I've seen an example of this in the newspaper
once, the article was about the West Nile Virus so there was a picture
of a large mosquito, but the way the photographer framed it, it seemed
like the mosquito was sucking blood right out of a persons head.
Fill the Frame
2003-09-21 17:40:08 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I agree with derrick, you should carefully scan the surrounding area
before you take the picture because you might miss something that might
screw up the picture. I've seen an example of this in the newspaper
once, the article was about the West Nile Virus so there was a picture
of a large mosquito, but the way the photographer framed it, it seemed
like the mosquito was sucking blood right out of a persons head.
auto white balance
2002-10-31 08:15:12 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I always shoot in RAW mode with the canon S40. This allows me to set
the whitebalance and some other things like
contrast/saturation/sharpness of the picture while digitally
develloping it.
RAW pictures are only slightly larger than the max quality Jpeg, the
only hassle is that you have to devellop every picture before being
able to (decently) view it. For that I use a batch convertor.
This allows me to get maximum quality and flexibility for the shots
that really count!
auto white balance
2002-12-04 08:46:44 aaaashy [Reply | View]
what do you mean when you say you have to "digitally develop" the
picture?
"batch converting" ?
i am an analogue photographer, and i can't imagine what these terms
apply to
can anyone shed any light?
auto white balance
2003-11-16 23:20:25 humann [Reply | View]
I believe "digitally develop" is an "anonymous" way to describe the use
of specialized software to deal with the
usually-proprietary-and-varying-by-brand RAW file format. This software
usually comes with the camera or you can buy the Adobe plug-in (or
Photoshop CS which includes the plug-in). Any of these softs enable
extra control over your images. For me with my Canon S50 this means I
can shoot a RAW photo (as opposed to jpeg) and *all* the data that the
camera captures is saved. Nothing is deleted for the sake of a smaller
(jpeg) file. This RAW file on the S50 is usually about twice the size
of the best jpeg setting. Another disadvantage is it takes a bit longer
for the S50 to write the data and be ready for the next shot. The
"batch converting" reference is to software (Photoshop for example)
that allows you to change a number of images with a single command.
This means you can click one button and convert all your RAW format
photos to a more portable file format. Then you can go back and see
which shots could use some RAW tweaking and re-import those.
I'm thinking how funny this is--I'm a computer geek and this part makes
perfect sense to me. What I am trying to learn is your field of
expertise--photography, and I'm still daunted by all the parameters and
their interrelationships.
auto white balance
2005-05-25 07:16:40 GitRDone [Reply | View]
http://www.expodisc.com
auto white balance is for people whom don't know any better.But they do
make me money fixing there garbage.Thanks to all that use AUTO settings.
Filters
2002-10-27 02:47:02 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
The sunglasses idea is great, but now I'm really curious.
I wear prescription sunglasses, which were burned with a brownish tone
unlike typical S/G's (my personal fashion statement <g>). And I
have horrible vision (+6 in my right eye, with astigmatism). After the
sun's up tomorrow I want to play around with using these glasses over
the lens. The great thing about digicams is the ability to experiment
with goofy ideas like this without cost.
Very good article. #6 is vital - I shot 550 pics during a vacation to
attend my sister's wedding. 200 were worth burning to CDs for family. I
carry two 256m chips plus a spare battery and charger in my camera bag.
another use for self-timer ;-) (Way Cool!)
2002-10-24 08:22:40 derrick [Reply | View]
That's the best.
If you don't mind, I'm going to use that anecdote during my photo
workshop next month -- of course with full credit.
-Derrick
another use for self-timer ;-) (Way Cool!)
2003-05-07 06:06:29 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Couldn't you just feel if the lightbulb was warm?
Lighting...lighting...lighting...
2002-10-23 12:41:05 agraham999 [Reply | View]
Nice piece Derrick! One thing I detest in my own digital photography
(thank goodness for Photoshop) is that quite often the flash burns the
image in low light settings...so if shooting someone in low
light...always opt for a location with proper lighting. If you have low
light, many cameras allow you to change the setting to allow more
light...then just turn off the flash. Also, the flash uses a lot of
juice. My last tip...rechargeable batteries. They don't last a long
time, but have a bunch charged and you save a lot of money.
save on expensive polarizers
2002-10-23 11:13:43 miscdebris [Reply | View]
This issue of purchasing and using a polarizing filter can many times
be accomplished in the digital darkroom (e.g. Photoshop). In most
instances in which a pro photographer would use a polarizing filter in
a non-digital setup, I can replicate the effect quite reliably and
nicely in Photoshop using curves and layers. The trick is to bracket
your shots to get a range of exposures while still ensuring that you're
getting good detail in the shadows. Ideally I'll work with an
underexposed image and then duplicate its layer in Photoshop, setting
the top layer to "screen" mode. Then by using curves and layer masks I
can manipulate my images to achieve the same effect as a polarizing
filter or a gradiated neutral density filter for enhancing the sky.
It's all a matter of intent. If you don't mind spending the time
working with your images in Photoshop, you've got a wealth of
opportunities at hand without the expense of additional equipment. Save
your money for a warming filter instead.
save on expensive polarizers
2002-10-23 11:30:46 derrick [Reply | View]
You're absolutely right; you can simulate the effect in Photoshop --
with a little practice.
I think it all comes down to what's most important to you: post
production time or minor equipment expenses.
I prefer to record the images as close to the final product as
possible. That's one of the reasons I like digital cameras so much --
they allow me to preview the picture while I'm still on location. Then,
I like to upload the images to iPhoto and begin using them right away
without major adjustments.
But I realize that others enjoy post production as much, or sometimes
even more, than the actual shooting. For those folks I still recommend
that you record the best image possible in the camera, but you can save
on some filters and other accessories thanks to the power of modern
image editors.
BTW: One of the reasons I mention using sunglasses for a polarizer is
for those who can't use, or don't want to buy filters.
Thanks for you thoughts :)
-Derrick
save on expensive polarizers
2002-10-23 13:39:15 apyh [Reply | View]
one quick note...
i think you can get filters out there on the net for ~$50, that
"expensive" price pales in comparison to the pricetag on good photo
manipulation programs like photoshop (~$600).
Especially for the beginner I'd sooner tell them to shell out $50-$100
for a filter (or even less for some polarized sunglasses like the idea
in the article) than have them consider buying photoshop.
save on expensive polarizers
2002-11-01 14:59:40 stephaniem [Reply | View]
I think polarised sunglasses are a great way to experiment with
polarisation effects, especially for beginners. For anything like
quality work, though, remember that the best sunglasses have abysmal
optical quality compared to even a half-decent camera lens.
Polarisers do many, many things that can't be simulated easily in
Photoshop - or at all, in some cases.
Polarisers don't uniformly increase contrast in an image; they darken
only polarised light. This includes light from a clear sky that's at 90
degrees from the sun; reflections off water, glass and most other
NON-metallic surfaces. They don't alter colour. Simulating these
effects accurately in Photoshop is very time-consuming indeed; tweaking
layers and curves isn't the same thing at all.
A polariser can also serve as a handy ND2 filter to give you that extra
long exposure or that shallower depth of field. Try simulating vehicle
light trails in Photoshop; sure, you can do it with some practice. But
shallow depth of field is a little harder to get right.
Polarisers can also see through the reflections on water or glass.
Photoshop can't.
$50-$100 for a polariser? Outrageous? Possibly. But at my rates for
Photoshop work, that's a bargain.
save on expensive polarizers
2003-11-10 06:32:12 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
oooh.... "at my rates for Photoshop work...". Guess us hacks should
make sure we purchase a Polariser then.
I enjoyed reading this article and even though I fancy myself a decent
amateur photographer, I found some useful tips. I would like to see
more articles like this.
Quality Article
2003-01-14 10:51:33 wackybill [Reply | View]
I agree 100% as well.
I would be interested in reading and learning what other filters work
well with digital cameras.(?) I am a canon G2 owner and I do have the
lensmate (http://lensmateonline.com) adpater that allows me to use 49mm
filters with my G2.
Thanks again for posting such interesting and educational reading!
Bill Miller
Quality Article
2002-10-23 13:42:25 apyh [Reply | View]
yeah, i agree 100%. It'd be great to find out what other simple effects
(like the slow motion water) are capable with a decent digicam.
Or other tips you can do after you've taken that high-res photo (like
the photoshop tips discussed in the previous comment threads)
Nice
2002-10-22 21:36:34 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Very good. Thanks for the tips. ;) JK
Nice
2003-06-29 20:36:48 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Very good tips. I tried the cloudy white balance but did not see a
great deal of difference. I may need glasses.
One quick question--how do you go about taking night time shots, such
as the downtown buildings at night? Do you just select a long shutter
setting and turn off the flash? Trial and error? Thanks.
Nice
2003-09-03 00:14:52 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
Use a tripod and a long shutter setting (depending on the time of
evening, anywhere from a half second on up). Definitely no flash! :) I
also recommend using the self timer to trip the shutter, so you don't
accidentally jar the camera. Good luck!
Nice
2003-12-11 01:31:46 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
This is very intresting to new comer like us to the world of digital
photography.
Nice
2003-12-11 07:45:07 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
thank you 4 helping me with my study
Nice
2003-12-11 07:47:05 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
I did not like this website.
Holding my 5.0 mrega pixels Gate way steady
2004-01-04 11:50:05 anonymous2 [Reply | View]
could you give me some tips? I have a hard time holding my camera
steady. My pictures do not come out as clear as I would like. Should I
use the small view finder and not the L.C.D.
Holding my 5.0 mrega pixels Gate way steady
2006-03-05 11:33:08 wjodon [Reply | View]
Use a monopod, which is much more portable than a tripod and can really
help with long exposures. I use an Hakuba Mono Stand 10, which has the
virtues of being small and easy to carry in an urban environment, and
of doubling as a mini-tripod.
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