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Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad Chama to Osier 7/6/2021

Elizabeth and I woke up in Chama, did our usual Internet things before going in search of breakfast. However, Chama is a very small community and as restaurants were open for the Fourth of July weekend, they closed this day, Tuesday, so none of them were open. We got into the car and found Speedway Gasoline station open and I bought two packs of doughnuts and and orange juice and Elizabeth had an apple fritter and orange juice. After I talked to Sarah Jennings last night, I learned that she and Bart were in Alamosa and riding from Antonito to Osier today. Our plan was to ride from Chama to Osier and meet them for lunch. In a perfect world, this would have worked. We came back to the room and I wrote the Pike's Peak story while Elizabeth caught up on e-mails. At 9:00, we walked over the road to train station, picked up our tickets and purchased two steam engine lapel pins for the engine we would be riding today.

The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad is a three foot narrow gauge heritage railroad running between Chama, New Mexico and Antonito, Colorado. It runs over the 10,015 foot Cumbres Pass and through Toltec Gorge, from which it takes its name. Trains operate from both endpoints and meet at the midpoint. Today, the railroad is the highest and longest narrow gauge steam railroad in the United States with a track length of 64 miles. The train traverses the border between Colorado and New Mexico, crossing back and forth between the two states 11 times. The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad has been jointly owned by the States of Colorado and New Mexico since 1970 when it was purchased from the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railway, saving it from the scrap yards. The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad received the Designation of a National Historic Landmark in 2012 by the United States National Park Service.

The railroad line was originally constructed in 1880-1881 by the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad as part of their San Juan Extension stretching from Alamosa, Colorado to Durango, Colorado. The line was constructed with three foot narrow gauge track to match the D&RGW's other lines. The line primarily supported mining operations in the San Juan mountains, mainly around Durango and Silverton. The longest and highest portion of the railroad, known as the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, is 64 miles long and was constructed in 1880 in less than 9 months; an engineering miracle even by today's standards, considering the work was all done by hand.

Today's Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad was built in 1882 as a branch line off this main. By the late 1950s mining had dwindled substantially and the line was on the verge of abandonment, but an oil boom near Farmington, New Mexico created a traffic surge that kept the line operating for another decade hauling oil and pipe. By the late 1960s the traffic was virtually gone and abandonment was applied for. The States of Colorado and New Mexico purchased the 64 miles of San Juan Extension between Antonito, Colorado and Chama, New Mexico in 1970 and started operating the next year under the name of the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad.

The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad continues to operate daily between May and October each year with five fully-restored steam locomotives. Soon the C&TSRR will have six fully restored engines when D&RGW 168 locomotive is moved from Colorado Springs, Colorado to Antonito, Colorado and restored to service. The 168 will then be the oldest and most authentic steam locomotive in the United States operating. The 168 was built in 1883 and is only one of two remaining of the original twelve locomotives built between 1883 and 1885 for the D&RG line. The other locomotive, 169 is on static display in Alamosa and not operational.

In 1970, the states of Colorado and New Mexico jointly purchased the portion of the line from Antonito to Chama along with much of the equipment that operated on the line. This section is the most scenic portion of the line, and a part that loops back and forth between the two states. The Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad Commission was created by an act of Congress as a bi-state entity to oversee the railroad. Over the years the railroad has been operated by several operators under contract by the commission, including Scenic Railways (1970-1981), Kyle Railways (1982-1996), Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Corporation/George Bartholomew (1997-1999), Rio Grande Railroad Preservation Corporation (2000-2002), Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Management Corporation (2003-2011), American Heritage Railways (2012) and Cumbres and Toltec Operating LLC (2013-).

Trains depart each morning from both Chama and Antonito. In peak season there are trains every day of the week in either direction. They meet at Osier, the midpoint of the line where lunch is provided. Passengers may continue on their train to the other end or switch trains to return to their original terminal. Through riders have the option of a motor coach return to their original terminal. All seats are reserved. Seats are sometimes available to walk-ups, but this is rare in peak season.

The line passes through Rio Grande and Carson National Forests. Most of the line is bordered by rocky ledges, cliffs and formations of varying types. The train passes along the rim of Toltec Gorge, a spectacular, though brief highlight. Conifer and aspen trees dominate with periodic mountain meadows. The aspen trees turn a brilliant yellow in the fall making those trips popular. The easternmost quarter shifts to scrubby and arid rolling hills. There are numerous restored historic structures along the line, including two tunnels, bridges, section houses and water tanks.

The Cumbres and Toltec is highly regarded by both railfans and historians due to its relative authenticity and surviving historic fabric. Chama houses one of the most physically complete railroad yards from the steam era in the United Sates. Although portions of the roundhouse, warehouses and parking lots have been changed, the railroad yard has the ambiance of pre-1960 railroad operations. The yard tracks contain authentic rolling stock and structures of the Denver and Rio Grande indigenous to the railroad line.

All the steam locomotives at the C&TS were built for and operated their entire careers for the Denver and Rio Grande Western. All 2-8-2 Mikados, these range from the relatively small K-27 "Mudhen", 463, once owned by Gene Autry, to the large K-37s, originally built as standard gauge locomotives. The mainstays are the venerable K-36 fleet, produced by Baldwin Locomotive Works in 1925. The only two Surviving D&RGW rotary snowplows are onsite and both have operated for the C&TS.

As Denver & Rio Grande Railroad San Juan Extension, the railway was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973. The boundaries of the NRHP listed area were increased in 2007.

The railroad was featured extensively in the 1969 film "The Good Guys and the Bad Guys" and was used in the opening sequence of "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade". The 2014 film "A Million Ways to Die in the West" also featured this railroad.

The C&TS has numerous siding and yards. There are turning wyes at Chama, Cumbres and Bighorn, turning loops at Osier and Antonito and a crossover at Lava. While officially headquartered in Chama, the railroad splits most of its functions between the terminuses of the railroad. The Cumbres and Toltec Commission offices are at Antonito, along with the railroad's main car shop where repairs to rolling stock are performed. The center of actual operations for the railroad is Chama, the site of the locomotive repair shop and the location of most of the historic equipment.

We went outside, crossed safely over the tracks and started looking around.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic K37 2-8-2 492, nee Denver and Rio Grande Western 492, built by Baldwin in 1928.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic K36 2-8-2 484, nee Denver and Rio Grande Western 484, built by Baldwin in 1925.

In the shop being worked on was Cumbres and Toltec Scenic K36 2-8-2 488, nee Denver and Rio Grande Western 488, built by Baldwin in 1925.

Elizabeth and our train for today.

Our train set with locomotive Cumbres and Toltec K36 2-8-2 487, nee Denver and Rio Grande Western 487, built by Baldwin in 1925.

487's builder's plate.

Coach 516, "Lobato", the coach we chose at the time of purchase.

The tender for 488.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic rotary snow plough OY built by Cooke Locomotive Works in 1923. We boarded the train sitting by the window opposite each other and had an on-time departure. Our tickets were taken and Elizabeth I were the first people to enter the open car.

Crossing the Chama River at Milepost 343.6..

Passing the Jukes Tree, an over-one-hundred-year-old Ponderosa pine named for photographer Fred Jukes, who who captured the line (and this spot) in the early 20th century.

We crossed the first crossing of New Mexico Highway 17.

Sugarloaf Mountain.

The train heading to Weed City.

Curving into Weed City

Near Lobato Siding is the stand for the water tower constructed in 1970 for use as a film prop in "Shootout", then more famously in "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade", when young Indiana Jones swung off the circus train.

Chama Peak to the north.

Crossing the Lobato Trestle, Milepost 339.99. It was named for Bartholome Lobato, who settled in Santa Fe in 1695 and from there, members of the family migrated to the northern part of the province. The J.J. Lobato Land Grant in Rio Arriba County probably was given to one of Mr. Lobato's descendants.

Wolf Creek runs under the Lobato Trestle.

The journey to Dalton.

The train scared the sheep as they stampeded down the hill.

The climb to the second crossing of New Mexico 17. We continued to climb the four percent grade but then stopped suddenly. The crew announced that a car on the train had a hot box and that we would be stopped until it was fixed. In all my years of train riding, this is a first being delayed by a hot box on a steam train.

The crew retrieved their fixing equipment from under the open car.

The crew working on the problem and after an hour had it fixed and off we went. We still had a chance of having lunch with Bart and Sarah.

The view while we waited. We took off and continued up the four percent grade.

The purple flowers are called lupins which is a joke to me as in Monty Python's Dennis More skit.

Climbing through the curve which I took pictures of during my 2016 chase.

The lupins are sure beautiful when they bloom.

Curving to the right on another curve.

Curving to the left as we climbed the grade.

Curving to the right.

Curving at the Cresco siding.

The Cresco water tower.

Curving out of the Cresco area.

Another beautiful mountain peak along our route.

The dead trees are the result of a bark beetle invasion in Colorado which destroyed many trees.

The train climbs another right-handed curve.

Looking back down the valley.

Coming into Coxo and we crossed Colorado Highway 17, the third crossing of the road.

Windy Point which also has many caves on it.

Coxo siding. After passing Coxo siding, the skies opened up and poured down rain and hail so we returned to our seats.

During the rainstorm, the drivers of the engine started to slip.

We stopped then reversed and attempted to go up the grade again. We climbed a little bit more and the same result, the wheels slipped. It was then decided to reverse down the tracks and drop off the last four cars. Our cars would be taken up to the Cumbres siding and then engine would come down and pull up the remaining cars to re-connect the train at Cumbres Pass.

So we reversed and disconnected the rear four cars before starting up the grade. All this time, all the windows were closed to keep the rain out.

The engine worked hard pulling the four cars up the grade.

Windy Point after the rain stopped.

Curving into Cumbres Pass.

The Cumbres Pass station.

We took on water.

The watering was finished.

Entering Cumbres Pass siding, a new piece of track for both of us.

The Cumbres Pass section house.

The remains of the snow shed.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic 2-8-2 487 cut off our train and went down to the switch to back down to the rest of the train.

The engine reversing by our train and heading down the grade.

Another of the snowsheds on the Cumbres Pass wye.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic 487 returned with the rear four cars.

The engine cut off, picked our cars up and re-coupled them to the rest of the train. After an air test, we then left for Osier.

Our ride around Tanglefoot Curve, Milepost 329.76. In the early years, there were three snowsheds and two wooden trestles around the tight curve.

Travelling to the Los Pinos water tower.

Los Pinos water tank, built in 1880, at Milepost 325.5. Until 1938, a section house and a bunk house were here. A coal house for refuelling the rotary snow plough trains was nearby. This coal house burned in February 1912 and was replaced by another one which lasted until 1929.

Rounding the Los Pinos curve.

The water tower from the other side of the valley.

The trip to the Rio Los Pinos valley.

The Los Pinos River valley.

The highest bridge on the railroad 137 feet above Cascade Creek and 409 feet long.

The Osier Station One Mile sign.

Curving on the last curve of the valley in which Osier is located.

Looking up the Rio Los Pinos.

The lunch room in Osier had been sighted.

Negotiating the last curve into Osier.

The Osier train station.

The water tower; the first was built in 1880 and the present is a replacement. It holds 50,00 gallons and is gravity-fed from an underground spring.

Despite being late, we were given our full time for lunch. Elizabeth and I had chosen the turkey dinner so when we detrained, we got into the right line then I had turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy and a roll while Elizabeth had the same as well as beans and cranberry sauce. We both enjoyed chocolate cake for dessert and lemonade to drink. Afterwards, I went outside for a few photographs.

The train and the Osier lunch room.

Our motive power for the trip back. As it started to rain, I returned to the coach but the sun briefly came out. My lovely wife then came out and shot her pictures including the depot then joined me on board. Since we were the only two people on the train, we took advantage of the situation as the sky had let loose. People slowly came back in various conditions of being wet. We sat in our seats together until the rain stopped which was after we left Rio Los Pinos valley. We returned to the open car which quickly dried and we had it to ourselves for a while.

The trip to Los Pinos.

Curving into Los Pinos.

Climbing around the curve and the grade to the Los Pinos water tank.

Ascending the grade to Tanglefoot Curve.

The train on Tanglefoot Curve.

Curving into Cumbres Pass, then Elizabeth and I relaxed the rest of the way down the hill to Chama. Just before the narrows, we spotted Bart and Sarah Jennings and I yelled to them to meet us in Chama.

Denver and Rio Grande Western water tower built in 1897. It may be the only operable double spout tank left in the country.

The coaling tower, which is often called a Fairbanks Morse type coaling tower since it was equipped with a Fairbanks Morse "Y" diesel engine. It was built in 1924 and while there were powerful electric motors available, most of the locations where the Rio Grande needed coaling towers did not have access to the electrical grid. In 1937, when electricity came to Chama, the coaling tower was converted to electric motor operation. The Fairbanks Morse Y engine was left intact as the structure had been built around it and there was no way to remove this valuable engine. The air-powered starter is connected to the air line on one of the steam locomotives via a long hose with a "glad hand" connector to the locomotive's air brakes. As the diesel fuel tank, located outside in an underground bunker is no longer connected to the engine, fuel must be fed from a fuel can inside the building.

The 1937 electric motor makes operation "simple". The buckets run from a transition operated from handles located near the rear windows. The rear windows are set at ground level so the operator(s) can see the buckets as they descend to the bottom of the shafts. When one bucket hits the bottom, the other bucket is landing in the coal chute at the top. The operator cannot see the top and must assume when the south bucket is at the bottom, the north bucket is now dumping into the main coal bin.

Coal is loaded into the bucket at the bottom of the shaft. Huge wheels, which look like ship's wheels, are used to open heavy iron gates at the bottom of the shaft pulled up by a chain that runs over a pulley to a winder on the end of the shaft with the "ship's wheel" on the other end. The wheel is large so that the operator can get the torque needed to lift the heavy gate. The handle on the transition is then operated to cause the loaded bucket to climb the tower as the empty bucket lowers to the bottom of its shaft.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic K36 2-8-2 484.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic 47 ton switcher 15 built by General Electric in 1943 for the Railway & Land Company in Hawai'i. It was later sold to the Camino Cable & Northern, a tourist railroad based in Camino, California. It then went to the Georgetown Loop and, finally, was moved to the Colorado Railroad Museum. This is apparently visiting from the Colorado Railroad Museum in Golden.

Once again, the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad gave us a very unique trip and one we will never forget. A special thank you to our hard-working train crew who managed to pull this trip despite everything that happened. We pulled into Chama and Elizabeth and I detrained and first we found Sarah Jennings who was greeted with hugs. Soon Bart joined us and hugs were exchanged with him. We told our tale of woe and he told us of their perfect trip. It was great to finally see them again in person in Chama as the last time we saw them was in their hometown of Alma, Arkansas in May.

The former Denver and Rio Grande Western station, built in 1899, which houses the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic's ticket office and gift shop.

On the way back to the hotel, we saw this engine this morning when we were looking for breakfast. We returned to the room and caught up on e-mail and the Internet before calling it a night.

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