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Modeling TCDD 56086

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At this stage, we have three major sub sets and some unattached parts:

  • The cab / boiler assembly
  • The frame
  • The walking board and the buffer beam
  • The unattached parts are mainly the cab roof, the smoke screens, the wheels and the rods.

I then proceeded with the painting before further assembly (Otherwise, too many dead angles will hinder proper painting).

After much hesitation, I finally choose Acrylic water based paint from the Tamiya and Vallejo / Prince August range. I only used Acrylic paints a few times before with mixed results due to lack of experience. This model was therefore to opportunity to practice once more with these products.

The plus of the Acrylic paints is the ease of use: they dissolve and wash in water. They can be both air sprayed or brushed. They dry really quickly and are quite resistant once dry. The range of color available is really large but designed for the military modeler (not a problem for our 56086 who requires only basic colors).

I did not use any primer, a good wash with hot water and soap being enough. I did use a clear coat finish to protect the paint.

After painting, the boiler, the frame and the boards can be glued together.

For now on, all the additional parts must be painted before assembly. Extra care must be taken in any handling in order not to spoil the paint. Avoid bare finger on the model as much as possible.

Painting scheme

Actual painting schemes of the 56000 are not very consistent and many variations can be found from one engine to the next. For example, engines have often a white edge on the smoke screens. They might have also white on the smokebox front end, around the door. Pipes and handrails can be black or red or even brass.

Herewith, the painting scheme I followed:


Overall engine


Wheels, air tanks, edge of walking board, rods, buffer beam


Rods, wheels (optional) and the smoke box.


Boiler joint covers, steam pipes



To be done in accordance to individual taste. It seems that the 56000 were kept quite clean. The brass joint covers on the boiler are often seen shinning. I would say that a light weathering would suffice.


Axle, rods and brakes

The wheels and axles are assembled using the BR50 wheels and 3mm tubes. The original hole in the wheels must be enlarged to 3mm using a 3mm drill bit (tricky to do properly). Assemble also the BR50 leading bissell.

Place the shoe brakes using the BR50 shoes. Detail at will the brake rods because they are quite visible underneath the frame. It is easy to do these rods using brass wire (also, on a static model, we can go beyond what is usually feasible on a regular HO model).

Mount the BR41 coupling rod on the driving wheels. Use the BR50 coupling rod, cut and paste it to extend the BR41 rod to the 1th axle.

Mount the main driving rod of the BR41

Detail all the rods at will, especially the reversing rod, which is not so nice in the Revell kit.



Final detailing

Final detailing should include at least two important items:

  • the cow catcher at the front end: to be scratch built
  • the number plates / TCDD plate and the "star & crescent" plate. These plates with their gold number on a read background are placed on the cab side, the tender side, the smoke box dor and the tender rear  end.

I also included the heat steam pipe which is highly visible on the fireman side as shown on 56086. Over time, this pipe took a different shape. On the last 56000 manufactured, the pipe was above the wheel.



56086, Ankara museum

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