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HO Mod SIG Electrical Specifications, Recommendations & Tips

In addition to the NMRA Module standards and recommended practices, we have our own.

• The trunk bus wires are 14 gage and end in barrier or terminal strips at each end.
• They are color-coded as follows (front to back):
  Outer track 1 outside rail is white
  Outer track 1 inside rail is red
  Inner track 2 outside rail is blue, (blue locally replaces the white standard)
  Inner track 2 inside rail is yellow
• We can provide correct wire at cost with Molex connectors, approx. $7.00.
• Be sure to mount the terminal strips out of the way of the clamping area.
• Track drop wires are 20-22 gage nonstranded and fastened at the terminal screws at both ends of the module.
• Molex connectors (flat, 4 wire), electrically connect modules to each other (plug 03-09-2041 and receptacle 03-09-1041) attached to the barrier strips. (Standards call for Cinch Jones which we have replaced). From the front, the male plugs are on the right.
• We always have adapters to connect any CJ to our Molex connectors.
• Everyone with sidings needs to connect them to the main bus with at minimum a DPDT switch to isolate the sidings. Even better would be a DPDTCO (double throw, double pole, center off) switch so that one could operate the siding with an independent power supply as well as turn it off. We occassionally us DC and it is very desireable to be able to store a locomotive on your siding.
• LEDs connected to the mainline show up as shorts when troubleshooting. So any LEDs hooked up to the mainline, should have a simple switch (spst) to turn them off.
• Install wire hooks on the inside of the rear of each module to support the DCC Cab bus wire and the signal wires around the layout. Before, these wires have hung all over the place. Ask Norm for a hook if you do not have one. One for each module.

12 Volt Bus

We decided that putting in a 12-volt bus along with the Track Bus would be well worth the effort. This would eliminate the need for most of the AC extension cords, wall warts, and terminal strips lying all over the floor. Anyone can tap into the 12 volts for switch machines, or lighting or whatever. A 5-volt converter could be made available if needed. (I have voltage regulators that are simple to make.) Each module would be provided with a wire, and two sockets.

All active modules received wires; however, the few modules that occassionally participate will borrow wires at shows. If you did not receive wires and have need for 12 volts now (switch machines, lights, etc.), see Norm as loaners will not have any way to connect to them.

Wires should be installed underneath the modules about 1 foot from the front. Each end is identical so it doesn't matter which end goes where. There is an extra 5-6" included so that you can attach accessories to or you may want a terminal strip or strip a small section and solder wires directly to it. In most cases, attach leads with about 26 or 28 gauge wire. Please don't use the automotive type "saddle clips" to attach wires. If you have turnout motors with solenoid coils, please see Al Rathbun for essential information before hooking these up to the bus. Use red for positive and black for negative

A switch between the 12 volt bus and your layout is real convenient and probably should be a requirement. This way you can isolate your module from the bus to help find shorts or you can turn your module off to work on it, leaving the rest operational.

Signals

The SIGNALS have been many years in development In general, we planned on signals at the left end (font view) of every other module (or every 3rd module if you have 6 modules). People with single modules are optional. At present, the signals will work correctly using the right hand rule. Eventually we'll have to work out something for DCC so that they work both in directions, probably using magnets and reeds on the side of the rails in adition to an additional PC board.

The signals consist of a PC board that controls the signals, 2 signal heads (three colors),2 reed switches in the rails, magnets under the loco or first car, and jumper cords that hook the PC boards in a loop. In operation, a train should "see" a green light as it approaches the block indicating that it is unoccupied. As the train enters the block, the signal turns to red behind the locomotive showing the block is occupied, at the same time turns the signal ahead to green, and the one behind to yellow and the rest off.

The PC boards and "headers"are installed under the modules on a loan basis. Please arrange with Bob Beise if you want to install these. Signal heads will be supplied at shows and be removed at shows. You will need to install a magnet under the locomotives or tenders/baggage cars so that the signals will work. We have some magents available.

Note: The signal circuit boards are of no value to individual people, so we decided to provide the signal boards to individual on a LOAN basis, returning them if they cease to participate or move away.

Signals require care. About 90% of the signals that don't work are due to damaged LED wires. Please treat these as very delicate devices, which they are. Try not to bump them moving cars around on the layout and especially care for them during takedowns. They will be removed and stored in the 4D equipment boxes. Some are permenantly mounted on the modules.

Mission Statement

Promote participation, sharing, railroad history, and the NMRA/4 Div.
Entertain and inform people about the hobby.
Help charities, community organizations, and other railroad groups.

NMRA

Introduction to module standards
link to NMRA introduction to module standards and recommended practices

Module standards
link to NMRA Module standards, in the standard gauges

Module recommended practices
link to NMRA Module recommended practices, in the standard gauges

Module electrical standards
NMRA Module standards, in the standard gauges

Module electrical recommended practices
link to NMRA Module recommended electrical practices

Last updated:

April 24, 2008