This is a common problem that can vex everyone. Get
out a pair of *strong* magnifiers and look at the brass lift lever and the hole it runs
in. AC made the frames with a die stamp, and as the die wears, the holes
develop rough edges. The rough edge slowly cuts into the brass lever backside, making a fine notch that acts as a wedge when the coil lifts it
to the top of the hole, and holds it there (it doesn't take much, apparently!). My 'fix' for this is
to use a fine jeweler's file on the hole, to make sure the edges are smoooooth, but being careful not to enlarge the
hole! (BTW, this is best done w/ the drum out and by carefully pushing
the lever, you can get it out of the hole too.) I then smooth out the back
edge of the brass lever, and then buff w/ my buffing wheel (you could use a
Dremel(R) [Let's keep the Lawyer's happy!] tool with a buffing wheel &
some red rouge). You want the brass lever to be smooooth on top, and on bottom,
so it can slide off the plastic ratchet on the drum, and not dig into
it either! After you assemble it,
you may need to adjust the lever so the drum stops centered under the fingers. Be aware that some repro fingers
are longer than the originals! I have had to often resort to 'making
them right' usually by making the 'U' contact area more pronounced, effectively shortening them. Carefully done, the E
units can be reliable. I have on my repair result sheet a '12 cycle' test for every loco before it leaves me. If it
'hangs' in any of these cycles, I go over it again. Oh, yes, residual magnetism
in the bottom plate can hang them too, but this usually only happens if you're running them on DC! Is this all clear as
mud????
