RIDING THE SILVER STAR TO COLONIAL VIRGINIA By Jack M. Turner
RIDING THE SILVER STAR TO COLONIAL VIRGINIA
By Jack M. Turner
http://trainweb.org/vrt/SILVERSTAR/
One of the leading destinations in the Southeast is
Williamsburg, VA as that community and neighboring Jamestown and
Yorktown are filled with history from America’s colonial period.
The train is a great way to travel to that region and my wife and I
found ourselves at the Jacksonville, FL Amtrak station on the night of
Friday, December 16, 2016 waiting on the northbound Silver Star.
Fortunately, the train was timely as it pulled into
Jacksonville within 15 minutes of schedule and soon we were tucked into
our berths in a bedroom aboard Viewliner sleeper 62022, formerly named
Mountain View but now devoid of that name even on the end doors.
Sleep came easily as train # 92 rolled through southeast Georgia on the
smooth former Atlantic Coast Line rails to Savannah. The
occasional sound of the horn on engine # 174 was more relaxing than
annoying as just that week the Silver Star’s sleeping cars and baggage
car had been moved to the rear of the train for the winter.
I awoke around 1:30am as we stopped in
Savannah. Thereafter it was hard to sleep for a while as the
tracks became rough through lower South Carolina as the ex-Seaboard “S
Line” route apparently is not as smooth as the ex-ACL “A Line”. I
finally fell asleep after we departed Denmark, SC and managed to sleep
through the next four station stops. There was no hurry to get up
in the morning as the Silver Star presently does not carry a dining
car. This normally has been a deal breaker for me as viewing the
passing scenery during meals is one of the great pleasures of train
travel. However, the Silver Star offers the best hours for
detraining in Richmond, VA which made our choice of trains a
no-brainer. The ride aboard Train # 92 brought back memories of
family trips with my parents in the 1970s when we rode the Silver Star
from Miami or Jacksonville to Richmond on several occasions as well as
a handful of personal trips in following years. In those days the
smell of bacon wafted from the dining car kitchen as we prepared to
enjoy a stack of pancakes for breakfast. In 2016 the absence of a
diner left us with a choice of either purchasing a pre-packaged
breakfast from the cafe lounge car or bringing our own breakfast with
us. We chose the latter which tied us over until arrival in
Richmond.
The impending arrival into Raleigh was heralded by
passage through the North Carolina State University campus and things
looked much as they did during our trips so long ago. One thing
that was different was the station in Raleigh as the colonial style
Seaboard station was long ago replaced by a functional station located
along the Norfolk Southern line that connects Raleigh with eastern
North Carolina. Overnight we had made up time as we waited
several minutes for our scheduled 8:45am departure time from North
Carolina’s capital city.
While the old Seaboard line continued northward from
Raleigh to Petersburg via Henderson and Norlina, NC, the NS routing
takes the Silver Star and the Charlotte to New York Carolinian eastward
to Selma where the “A Line” is joined. The former route was long
ago abandoned north of Norlina. Meanwhile, our route took a
curved connector track to join the CSX “A Line” without stopping at
Selma and we noted several people waiting beside the station for the
Carolinian which trailed us by about 90 minutes. After passing
through Wilson the Silver Star called at Rocky Mount where business was
fairly brisk. A notable feature of Rocky Mount is the rows of
stores facing the railway just north of the depot and we enjoyed
viewing these businesses as our train accelerated out of town. At
Weldon we passed above a former Seaboard line that hosted that
railroad’s Tidewater which ran to Portsmouth, VA in the pre-Amtrak
years. Shortly we crossed a tall bridge over the Roanoke River
and in a few minutes entered the state of Virginia.
Passing the station at Selma, NC on the interchange track to the CSX line
An hour later we passed South Collier Yard near
the location where the old “S Line” used the join the “A Line”.
At 11:23am we spotted the nicely ballasted connector track that hosts
Amtrak’s New York to Norfolk train on its transition from CSX to
Norfolk Southern rails just moments before the Silver Star crossed the
Appomattox River on a high bridge. At 11:30 train 92 discharged a
few passengers at Petersburg which is served by ten Amtrak trains each
day. A few miles up the line we sailed past a US Army facility
that houses a variety of military supplies then we rolled past
Centralia where the former Seaboard line to downtown Richmond branches
off. Suburban neighborhoods soon enveloped the rail line through
a thickly forested area then the trees gave way to reveal our crossing
of the towering James River trestle. The river was strewn with
large boulders signaling that this is the river’s fall line. A
Norfolk Southern branch line traced the south bank of the James while
the CSX coal train line linking western Virginia with the Hampton Roads
area followed the north bank.
Crossing the Appomattox River
The Petersburg Amtrak station
Crossing the James River whose rocks signify the fall line
Passing above the ex-C&O line used by CSX coal trains from western Virginia
Moments later the Silver Star passed the wye leading
to stately Broad Street Station which hosted passenger trains for
decades until Amtrak moved operations to its own station off Staples
Mill Road many years ago. Just beyond the Broad Street cutoff we
passed the junction with the route used by Northeast Regional trains to
Newport News. That line once carried Seaboard’s trains north of
downtown before the merger with the ACL shifted service to the present
route. Our path into Amtrak’s station off Staples Mill Road was
smooth and we arrived on-time at 12:07pm. Within minutes a driver
from a rental car agency arrived and we were on our way to Williamsburg
with a brief stop for lunch on the outskirts of Richmond.
The northbound Silver Star at Richmond
An Amfleet II coach near the head end of the Silver Star
The Williamsburg area offers much to see and do and
Christine and I visited many of the area’s leading sights during our
week-long stay. Colonial Williamsburg is the centerpiece of
visits to the region as it contains numerous important buildings dating
from the colonial period of American history or faithfully
reconstructed to match that era. The Governor’s Palace is a
beautiful estate that housed the colonial governor and hosted many
social and political leaders of the day. When one steps into its
spacious dining room, they can easily imagine guests socializing over a
delicious dinner. A pleasant walk down Duke of Gloucester Street
deposits visitors at the Colonial Capitol where laws were passed and
many famous patriots gathered. Shields Tavern stands adjacent
ready to serve lunch and dinner to today’s tourists in the manner it
served in colonial times. Throughout Colonial Williamsburg there
are numerous notable houses and trade shops where visitors can get a
glimpse of colonial furnishings and watch the practice of trades such
as jewelry making, furniture making and other woodworking,
blacksmithing, etc. In addition to Shields Tavern, there are
several other taverns ready to serve guests in authentic colonial
establishments.
Front of the Governor’s Palace
A variety of weapons are displayed in the entry room of the Governor’s Palace
The Brush-Everard House in Colonial Williamsburg
Homes in Colonial Williamsburg are decorated with wreaths for Christmas
Horse drawn carriages roll down Colonial Williamsburg streets
Duke of Gloucester Street is lined with colonial homes and shops
Passes allowing access to all of the Colonial
Williamsburg venues are available from the Visitors Center located
approximately one mile from the Williamsburg Amtrak station.
Passes are not necessary to dine in one of the colonial taverns nor to
stroll the cobblestone streets of the colonial area. The latter
is one of the great pleasures of visiting Colonial Williamsburg as
motor vehicles are prohibited in the colonial area which provides an
authentic atmosphere. Observing the numerous back yard gardens
and the craftsmanship that went into constructing the colonial homes
and buildings within the village is a relaxing way to enjoy a walk
through a virtual time machine. Summer is a popular time to visit
Colonial Williamsburg yet almost any season is perfect for a
visit. Our pre-Christmas visit was ideal as crowds were smaller
than during the summer, temperatures were chilly which was a nice
alternative to summer heat, and the holiday spirit was evident in the
form of wreaths hung on many front doors. In early evening a fife
and drum corps marches along Duke of Gloucester Street and a sentinel
lights baskets of kindling known as cressets that line the street much
to the delight of large crowds that follow along. Another popular
holiday activity is an ice skating rink standing in the middle of Duke
of Gloucester Street between the colonial area and modern day Merchants
Square.
A fife and drum corps marches down Duke of Gloucester Street in the evening
A sentinel lights cressets along Duke of Gloucester Street
One day of our stay was devoted to visiting nearby
Yorktown including the brand new American Revolution Museum at
Yorktown. The 80,000 square foot museum tells the story of the
founding of America through use of fantastic indoor exhibits, short
films, and an outdoor living history area that recreates a colonial
settlement and continental army encampment. During our visit to
the living history part of the museum, we had a chance to watch the
firing of a musket then held the weapon ourselves, dipped candles to
experience the process of candle making, and listened to an interpreter
demonstrate the role of the medical doctor in colonial times.
Most of our visit was spent examining the indoor museum displays which
were fascinating as were brief films that enhanced our visit. The
highlight was an immersive film, presented in a half circle vision
style, with special effects that bring viewers right into a redoubt
(bunker) with British troops during the American Revolution.
Several special events are scheduled throughout the coming year and
information can be found at the web site listed below.
The American Revolution Museum at Yorktown
A diorama of the Battle of Great Bridge
A plaster statue of George Washington that once stood in the US Capitol
A costumed interpreter fires a colonial musket
A colonial doctor displays tools used for severe battlefield injuries
Nearby we found the Yorktown Colonial National Park
operated by the National Park Service. The highlight of a visit
to this museum is a collection of tents dating to the American
Revolution with parts of George Washington’s tents among the
display. Visitors can drive through the adjacent battlefield
where the final major battle of the American Revolution was fought in
1781. Nearby the small burg of Yorktown is worth a visit as both
original and reconstructed buildings reflect life in the mid- to- late
1700s. There are a few restaurants located in town along the York
River and the cafe at the American Revolution Museum also serves a good
lunch.
The following day we visited Jamestown, site of
America’s first permanent English colony. Historic Jamestowne,
operated by the National Park Service, offers a museum telling the
story of the historic site and a self guided walking tour of the actual
site where the original community was established. The grounds
are an active archeological dig site and visitors can watch as experts
search for pieces of American history.
A statue honoring Captain John Smith and the original Jamestowne church
We also visited Jamestown Settlement which recreates
the Jamestown story in a most interesting way. Visitors first
tour a well organized gallery which tells the story of the founding of
Jamestown in 1607 then may enjoy a pleasant walk to the James River,
along the way visiting a replica Powhatan Indian village and a replica
of a colonial fort. Three replica sailing ships stand at the edge
of the river allowing visitors to see what life was like aboard the
ships that brought the first colonists to Virginia. Throughout
our visit to Jamestown Settlement we found interpreters to be
knowledgeable and willing to explain items related to the colonists and
the native Powhatan Indians. Brief films provide background about
Jamestown and help put the site into historical context. An
excellent cafe is located within the main gallery building which is
important since dining facilities are sparse in Jamestown.
Entrance to Jamestown Settlement
Inside the fort at Jamestown Settlement
Replica ships in the James River behind Jamestown Settlement
Both the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown and
Jamestown Settlement are administered by the Jamestown-Yorktown
Foundation, an agency of the State of Virginia. Combination
admission tickets to both facilities are available on site. See
below for the foundation’s web site. Meanwhile the National Park
Service museums in Yorktown and Historic Jamestowne are operated by the
NPS and are subject to NPS fees. Yorktown and Jamestown are
located on opposite sides of Williamsburg and are linked by the
Colonial Parkway, a pleasant drive through woodlands and along the
banks of the York and James Rivers.
The Colonial Parkway links Yorktown, Williamsburg, and Jamestown
The final major attraction we visited on this trip
was Busch Gardens Williamsburg which is located just east of that city
off US 60 and close to the CSX rail line used by Amtrak Northeast
Regional trains connecting Boston and Newport News. This theme
park represents several European countries such as England, France,
Italy, and Germany among others, each in its own section of the
park. During the holidays the park is transformed into Christmas
Town with the largest display of Christmas lights in North
America. Strolling the grounds and enjoying Christmas music that
played everywhere was in itself a treat as was visiting the shops and
dining establishments associated with each country. Various
venues offered shows such as an excellent presentation of the Charles
Dickens classic “A Christmas Carol” and a holiday themed ice skating
show featuring Olympic silver medalist Elvis Stojko. After dark
the Busch Gardens steam train circles the park carrying passengers
through lighted forests and past the various nations’ villages that
comprise the park. Three train sets make up the Busch Gardens
Railway which operates on a loop stretching roughly 1 1/2 miles around
the park. The three steam engines that pull the trains were built
in 1975 by Crown Metal Works of Wyano, PA which produced amusement park
steam engines and passenger cars between 1959 and 1989.
The England section of Busch Gardens Williamsburg is decorated for Christmas
The France section of Busch Gardens is all decked out
Beginning our 1 1/2 mile train ride on the Busch Gardens railway
Thousands of Christmas lights can be seen during the train ride
The second train departs its originating station
The third train begins its journey
Olympic silver medalist Elvis Stojko headlines the ice skating show
Busch Gardens Williamsburg is also very popular during the summer
months when its water park is in operation along with the various
“countries” and its iconic roller coasters. It is wise to consult
the web site listed below to verify dates in which Busch Gardens is
open during the off season.
Among dozens of hotels in the Williamsburg area we selected the Hilton
Garden Inn which is conveniently located off US 60 west (Richmond Road)
and this choice proved excellent. The Hilton Garden Inn’s
colonial design is in keeping with the area and its nicely appointed
rooms and suites were quiet and comfortable. The lobby restaurant
served a delicious breakfast each day and was open through the
evening. The indoor swimming pool and hot tub looked inviting and
are especially popular with kids. We appreciated the hotel’s
location which was just a few minutes from Colonial Williamsburg, the
College of William & Mary, and Busch Gardens, with easy access to
the Colonial Parkway to Yorktown and Jamestown. A wide variety of
restaurants are within a mile of the hotel in either direction and
outlet shopping is just a couple miles down the road at a major outlet
shopping center.
The Hilton Garden Inn reflects Williamsburg’s colonial style
The former Chesapeake & Ohio rail line operated by CSX is across US
60 and there are numerous excellent places to watch Amtrak and CSX
freight trains within a short drive of the Hilton Garden Inn. The
Williamsburg Amtrak station is worth a visit as four passenger trains
per day stop at the attractive brick depot which resembles a colonial
home in appearance. These trains provide one seat service to the
Northeast and offer connections from the west at Washington and New
York. Passengers coming from Florida face a long layover in
Richmond and thus may want to consider renting a car as we did for the
one hour drive to Williamsburg. Other good locations to watch
trains include Ashland, VA, approximately 90 minutes away by car (also
accessible via Amtrak from Williamsburg) and anywhere along the Norfolk
to Petersburg stretch of the Norfolk Southern line south of the James
River, accessible by car using the free ferry boat at Jamestown.
The Williamsburg Amtrak station is served by four daily trains
Inside the Williamsburg train station
Westbound Amtrak train # 94 arrives in Williamsburg
Train # 94 makes a lengthy stop at Williamsburg to board a large crowd
Train # 94 departs for Richmond, Washington, and all points to Boston
Eastbound train # 67, the former Twilight Shoreliner, arrives in Williamsburg
Train # 67 prepares to depart for Newport News
Train # 67 departs as seen from a street crossing east of the Amtrak station
Train watching in nearby Ashland, VA is popular
The College of William & Mary offers sports fans an enjoyable
change of pace in the form of football, basketball, and baseball
games. During our visit Christine and I attended a W&M men’s
basketball game and witnessed the Tribe setting the record for most
three point shots made in one game. William & Mary sports
schedules may be found at the site noted below.
William & Mary basketball player shoots a three pointer against Savannah State
Numerous other sights are located within an hour of the Williamsburg
area including Berkley and Shirley Plantations along the James River
west of Williamsburg; The MacArthur Memorial (a museum dedicated to
WWII hero Gen. Douglas MacArthur), The Chrysler Museum of Art; and
Norfolk Botanical Gardens in Norfolk; the Virginia Air and Space Center
in Hampton; and the Science Museum of Virginia which is housed in
stately Broad Street Station in Richmond.
Following lunch with my cousin and her husband in Richmond, we returned
our rented minivan and were driven back to the Amtrak station off
Staples Mill Road. There was a huge crowd waiting on trains to
the northeast and to Newport News as Friday December 23 was the
beginning of Christmas weekend. The Silver Star departed on
schedule at 5:17pm after picking up only a few passengers in
Richmond. Our bedroom in car 62026 (formerly “Ocean View”) must
have been occupied until Richmond as the car attendant directed us to
the adjacent lounge car until he could make up the room. Since
there were only a couple of customers waiting we went ahead and picked
up hot turkey and provolone cheese sandwiches from the take out counter
and found them surprisingly tasty. While a dining car meal would
have been a much more enjoyable dinner option, at least the lounge car
meal was better than expected.
A Viewliner II baggage car on the rear of the southbound Silver Star at Richmond
Amfleet II cafe-lounge 28008 provides the only food service on the Silver Star
Soon our car attendant came by and advised us that our room was ready
and we settled in to watch the passing sights. Darkness had
arrived by the time we departed Richmond so the main objects of our
viewing were passing Christmas lights and street lights in the small
towns along the railway. The station stop in Petersburg was
fairly busy and 35 minutes later we noted passage through Emporia which
would seem well located for consideration as a stop by trains passing
through in the daytime. Near the North Carolina border we passed
the northbound Palmetto which was running about three hours late; it
should have been in Richmond at the same time as our train. Ten
minutes later the elevated track took us through Weldon then we rolled
through the darkness to Rocky Mount, a busy stop for all Florida
trains.
A great feature on the Silver Star was Amtrak Connect, a complimentary
on board Wi-Fi service available to passengers. The service
remained reliable throughout the trip and included a map that showed
the train’s location and speed. This identified our location in
real time which was a great help since it was impossible to read town
names on passing water towers and post offices due to the
darkness.
After passing through Elm City and Wilson, the Silver Star left the
ex-ACL at Selma and charted its northwestward course for Raleigh.
We watched passengers come and go during our 20 minute station stop in
Raleigh before departing on-time at 9:01pm. Ten minutes later we
reached our next stop, Cary, and once more the Star had to wait 12
minutes for the scheduled departure time of 9:23pm. The next
stop, Southern Pines, has always been one of the prettiest towns to
view from a train. The town was even better at night with
Christmas lights transforming Southern Pines into a winter
wonderland.
Before I was able to fall asleep we stopped in Hamlet, a small
community that was once a hub for Seaboard routes in all four
directions and home to an important SAL rail yard. I managed to
sleep through our stops in Camden and Columbia, SC but woke for the
middle of the night stops in Denmark and Savannah. Eventually we
had to wake up at 6:00am to be ready for our early morning arrival in
Jacksonville. Normally we travel on the Silver Meteor whose
arrival around 9:00am allows sleeper passengers to sleep until a more
palatable hour and have breakfast in the dining car. The Silver
Star schedule fit our needs better on this trip since it dovetailed
nicely with the rental car agency’s hours in Richmond and facilitated
an early arrival at home on Christmas Eve. Our 6:31am arrival in
Jacksonville was 8 minutes early and after collecting our checked
luggage we were on our way home to enjoy the holiday.
Our round trip aboard Amtrak’s Silver Star had been very pleasant and
certainly was preferable to battling holiday traffic on I-95.
Williamsburg was a perfect destination for enjoying the week before
Christmas and we enjoyed making one day visits to Yorktown, Jamestown,
Colonial Williamsburg, and Busch Gardens. The links below provide
useful information for planning visits to these sights.
