Question: Fix the buzz
in a Action Caboose?
Answer: Buzzing is normal. It's the
continuous duty solenoid on AC. If you
put a diode in series with the coil the
resultant DCV in the caboose
will prevent buzzing. Chuck Smith of the
NASG, Rochester Area S Gaugers and the
S Gauge Chemung Valley Lines. http://home.eznet.net/~cesmith
OR
Although a small rectifier does fix the
buzz (as correctly suggested), placing a
small piece of foam inside the solenoid
and a small piece of tape under the slide
arm where it touches the caboose floor
often works, if you desire to keep the piece "stock".
RBubeck BACK
Question: Clean up old
Track?
I use a glass bead cabinet with the air
pressure turned down to about 45lbs and
gently glass bead the track. Depending
on how rusty it is, you may clean it up
without taking all the blackening off the
ties. If your are this lucky, you may
then clear coat the track with some spray
can acrylic clear. If you have taken
all the blackening off the ties, you can
coat the track with Semi-gloss Black,
or Semi-flat black( I prefer the former,
although there is only a slight difference
between them)
I coat the track by placing the sections side by side on a 2 X 4
on saw horses. I put the track down
right side up, paint the sides of
the ties first, then the rails. After this
coat dries a bit, I turn the
track over and paint the bottoms the same
pattern. Since you have to sand the
rail tops afterwards anyway, I don't worry
about messing up the paint on
the rail tops. Let the paint dry at least
a few hours. A spay can
should do at least 30 pieces of track.
After the paint has dried, if you are going to be using the
track soon, I take a sanding block and
600 Grit Wet or Dry and sand the tops
of the rails. If you want a smoother
surface, use 1000 or 1200 grit instead.
You may
have to touch-up the track pins too. If your going to store the
track for a while, don't sand it yet, but
don't forget to put a note in
the box to remind yourself to sand before
use!
Also, I straighten the track and check for loose ties before
painting. When I stay straighten, I'm talking
about looking for sags
between ties and other missalignment that
cause derailments, bad
coupling, etc.! To tighten loose
ties, all I usually have to do is
place track on flat surface, take straight,
normal pliers and grip the sides
of the tie "clamps" and squeeze. This will
force the ends down against the
rail and usually does the trick.
The glass beading doesn't seem to eat into the insulators much,
but don't forget to blow off the track
after you take it out of the
booth so you get rid of the loose beads
in corners, etc.
One more track trick: Check at joints for 'upset' ends, where
the rail end is flared out and may make
a sharp projection. These eat up
pulmor tires and plastic wheels.
a little filing, or dremel tool
grinding here will greatly improve wheel
life! Make it Smoooooth!
David J. Dewey
OR
Ted Larson suggests crumpling up a section
of Aluminum foil into a ball,
and "sanding" the top of the rail.
It takes the rust and tarnish off without
damaging the good plating. And it
takes no special equipment. True, it
does not clean the sides of the track.
At least it makes the track usable.
OR
Some folks use dremel tool with a wire
brush to do all the cleaning. (Paul)
BACK
Question: Get decals
for my trains?
The parts dealers sell decals and transfers
that are very close to the originals.
You can also buy block stamp, just like
they used in the factory. (Paul)
Parts
suppliers info page
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