How
to
construct a sHOw module
• Cut (4)
2x2 wooden legs to 40”.
• Drill bottoms of 40” legs in the center, deep enough to
accept a 5/16” threaded T-nut in each leg.
• Insert (1) 5/16” T-nuts in each leg by hammering in place.
• Put (1) 5/16” threaded furniture glide bolts in each leg
and tighten snug. Be sure the bolt inserts all the way into the leg
leaving only the adjustable glide visible.
• Cut (2) pine or poplar frames 42”.
• Cut (4) pine or poplar for frames and joists 30”.
• Cut (2) 1” square notches in each 30” frame and joists
for wire bus.
• Place (2) 30” and (2) 42” frame pieces on a flat
surface and test for square. 30” pieces fit inside 42” pieces
in a lap joint.
• Use 1 5/8 #6 drywall screws to join. Wood glue may be added.
• Restest for square, Glue and screw.
• Cut (4) 2x4 blocks to 4+” to box in legs on corners.
• Cut (4) 2x4 blocks to 2” to box in legs on corners.
• Test fit the 2x4 blocks to allow for slippage of the legs.
• Glue and screw corner leg blocks level with top of frame.
• Mount 1 1/2’ metal washer on top of each leg.
• Drill hole in corner block to place 1/4 20 T-nut and to allow
1/4 20 thumbscrew to engage leg at point of the washer to secure and
release each leg.
• Secure legs with thumbscrews.
• Add (2) 30” wood joists at equal spacing between 30”
freame sides testing for square. Glue and screw.
• Cut 3/8” plywood 6” X 42” EXACTLY if you want
sub-roadbed with an open grid OR cut a 31.50” x 42” piece
of 3/8” plywood for a solid top.
• Note: All scenery must level at this top on the edges where
the module meets with other modules. Inside scenery levels may go
below or above the edge levels as long as the edges meet.
• For open grid, place the 6” x 42” sub-roadbed plywood
EXACTLY 9.75” from the FRONT edge of the 42” frame. Glue
and screw the sub-roadbed plywood.
• If you top the frame, line up the 31.50” x 42” plywood
top on the frame. Be certain that it is cut squarely. Glue and screw
each frame and joist to the plywood.
• Put a sandwich of 3/16” Luuan board 4” x 42”
EXACTLY 10.75 from the front frame edge on each end so that it is
square on top of the sub-roadbed plywood. Glue and nail in place.
• Use Liquidnails @ adhesive to secure a top layer of (2) 1/8”
grey Vinylbed @ for double tracks placed 2” apart EXACTLY on
centers of 11.75 and 13.75 from the FRONT of the frame edge.
• Nail (2) pieces of code 100 flextrack to Vinylbed @. with small
rail spikes at stated locations three inches from each of the ends
of the module.
• Nail (4) pieces of code 100 short track (2 on each end to run
the double track to the edge of the module.
• Maintain the alignment. Test with a metal straight edge. Eyeball
at track level from the ends. Adjust as necessary to form a straight
line of track.
• Drill access holes near each track rail on the far sides AWAY
from the publics’ viewpoint.
• Solder 18 ga solid core wire on the sides of the rail and drop
through the holes under the roadbed and sub-roadbed.
• Attach wires EXACTLY as shown in the electrical PLAN
run to an 8 pole terminal strip under the sub-raodbed.
• Advance to multicolored 16 ga or 18 ga multi-stranded wire
bus under the sub-roadbed connecting to Jones plugs and sockets. See
electrical PLAN.
• IMPORTANT! Follow colors and sequence to insure that your track
will work with other modules. If you are not sure---ASK!
• Attach a 2 outlet electrical box with a 6 foot cord 110volt
AC 3 pin grounded plug within 8” of the next module on the socket
end of the back frame.
• Run cords through notches in frames and joists.
• Apply standard ballast and brush to tie level so no gravel
in touching sides/edges of tracks.
• Set ballast by spraying with detergent/water mix or alcohol
before applying white glue/water set or acrylic matte medium/water
mix with an eyedropper.
• Modules are locked together with c-clamps.
• Front with 1/8” Masonite fascia board cut to the profile
of your module x 42”. Paint Pittsburg Paints Semi-gloss Casino
Green. Secure with 1/4 20 flathead bolts and wing nuts.
• Back with 1/4” Masonite skyboard painted Sears Easy Living
Flat #663 Siamese Blue with NO clouds cut 16” x 42”. Note
that @ 12” is visible above the frame base since the backboard
is lined up with the bottom of the frame board. Secure with 1/4 20
flathead bolts and wing nuts.
• Pat yourself on the back. Now, that wasn’t so bad.
Was it?
