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This step is the most important step, since running trains is the
main aspect of the hobby. Trains just won't run on less than adequate
rail surfaces. Be sure to read this section carefully!
Track products
There are many different types of track available. From straight sections to rerailers,
here's what you'll need to know (and be sure to see Choosing and buying):
- CODE refers to the rail height, in thousandths of an inch. So CODE 100 rail
is .100 inches tall. CODE 83 rail is .083" high.
- Rerailers help keep the trains on track.
- Turnouts (switches) will allow trains to move to other tracks. (more below)
- Terminal rerailer connects the tracks to the electricity.
- Rail joiners Stamped metal sleeve to join the rails electrically.
- Grade How steep can you go? Most follow the formula
run 25" and rise 1".
Turnouts- curved, straight? #4 or snap-switch? Powered or Insul-frog?
Available curved or straight, in many different sizes. The curved ones are measured by
the radii of the two ends, while the straight ones go by a number, usually. The lower that number,
the tighter the turn off the track. A SNAP-SWITCH is the tighest of all, in that it's made
to fit into an 18" radius curve for HO. A good rule of thumb is to go (scale speed wise)
double the number of the turnout. Go about 8 MPH through a #4 turnout. Also available
as powered and unpowered units, or as insulated frog or power-routing frog. The insulated
is preferred for the novice, because it is the simplest to use. With power routing,
the electricity is sent which ever way the points are thrown.
 A turnout
Roadbed
First, choose the type of roadbed you want. You can skip this part
if you wish, but most modelers prefer the sound deadening qualities and the
realistic appearance that roadbed provides. Roadbed is an underlayment
between the track and the plywood surface.
There are many different types of roadbed available, but the most
widely used is cork roadbed. It is usually sold is strips 3 feet long, and
is made for a specific scale. The following is how to install roadbed:
1: Mark the layout plan on the plywood. Be sure to be as accurate as
possible in this step.
2: The best way of doing this is by using the track pieces themselves.
3: The roadbed should split down the middle, at an angle. Split the
pieces, and place the pieces side by side with the angled edges
on the outsides.
4: Lay a bead of white glue, and place the roadbed over the plan. (It
is helpful if you tack or pin the pieces to keep them from moving, but
these don't have to be permanent)
5: For turnouts, you need to cut the pieces to fit.
6: Lightly sand the tops of the roadbed to ensure a smooth surface
for track, when the glue dries.
| Cork |
Rubber |
Homasote |
| Cheap and readily
available |
Easy to use- stick and
go |
Longest lasting;
quiet |
| May dry out |
Expensive and permanent |
Hard to install,
permanent |
Track laying
To install track, the process is
similar:
1: Mark the plan, if not using roadbed.
2: Lay the track loosely on surface (or roadbed)
3: Make sure that everything fits nicely, and that all rail joiners
are secure.
4: Nail the track into the surface (or roadbed) by placing rail
spikes (by name) into the holes in the ties of the track.
5: You only need enough nails to hold the track sturdy.
*Also- make sure to include at least one terminal rerailer section of track in
the plan- this will be needed later in wiring.
You may find it necessary to cut throught the tracks, at one point or
another. It is handy if you use a hack saw, moto-tool and cut off
wheel, or special rail-nippers.
Ballast
Ballast refers to the rocks and stones placed between the ties to allow for drainage
on prototype railroads. You can mimic these stones on your model using crushed rocks, available
at hobby shops. Or, you can collet your own outside- just make sure it's pure, clean, and dry. Run
a magnet through it to remove any metallic particles. Then, scoop it down, between the rails, and on
the sides. Avoid getting it into switch machines by covering them up with tape. Use a small
brush to keep the stones groomed and out of the way of the wheels in between flangeways and switch points.
Glue it down by misting it with water
first. Mix water, white glue or matte medium (an artist's
product) 50:50, and add a drop or two of dish detergent (to
break the surface tension of the water and allow it to flow
into the crevices). Apply this with an eyedropper.
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A turnout