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Driveway Track
If you decide to built a track section like this, leave at least 1 1/2 inches between the center tracks.
This should allow the passing trains not to go "Bump" if you have curves at the transition ends.
When running 2 trains on the main line, we monitor them very closely.

We're going to leave this construction as it is because of the hassle of ripping it up and redoing it.

Questions? Just email us...

Details of the track crossing the driveway.
Driveway crossing rails have been custom made with 1/2 x 1-1/2 inch channel steel with 3/8 x 1-1/4 oak
attached in the channel. The channel has been gauged to mate with the LGB 332 brass track and fitted for
a smooth transition.

The whole mess was then attached to 3/8 x 12 inch concrete siding with 1/4-20 x 3/4 machine screws and "T-
nuts", leveled, cemented and TapCon screwed to the driveway. Both of our automobiles (a Saturn and a
Malibu) are able to drive across the track with no problem except when trains are running, the trains have
the right-of-way.

None of the PCSRR track is powered so the steel channel works just fine.
Passing trains on the driveway track. Note the
automobile tire tracks in the snow.

Left: Closeup of trasition
from steel rails to LGB track.
Right: Overview of steel rails, oak
inserts, screws and cement siding base.
This system of transporting trains
across the driveway works great.
However, there is one engineering
miscalculation (goof) that was made by
the designer, builder, and COE. (me)
Trains are able to pass each other on
the straight portion of the track ok, but
the curves at the transition points on
either end are too close together.
Because of the "swingout" or overhang
of the front end of the engines will catch
cars and engines on the other track,
"things go Bump, Bang and Crash".